High Pressure Sodium Fitting

[Dave2010]

hi all,

have 5 above fittings on 1 circuit that tripped. After checking them out, found a busted ballast. Replaced the ballast however its still not working also changed the lamp with a known working one but still nothing. Photos show old and new and as you can see the new one has an extra terminal block. I wired as original and then also tried terminal 1 3 for 230V
There is 230V throughout fitting and upto the lamp holder.

where to go now? any advice pls?

thanks in advance

old


new

 

[aptsys]

You need to remove the brown wire currently in terminal 2 and move it to terminal 4 instead. If it doesn't work, you might need a new lamp too. I presume the lamp has the ignitor built in?

 

[Dave2010]

tried that also mate and tried a known working lamp but still no look.

 

[aptsys]

Is the neutral still present at the fitting?

 

[Lectrician]

If there is no ignitor in the control gear then moving the brown down should sort it out.

Check the neutral and lamp as mentioned.

 

[Dave2010]

to check neutral is it best just doing cont check from board or previous fitting

anybody get problems with capactiors much? Cause the ballast was bust and the lamp didnt work in another fitting (forgot to mention that in 1st post )

but yeah i tried a known working lamp in this faulty fitting and it still didnt work

 

[Lectrician]

It will still work without a capacitor.

Use your volt meter between L and N - should have 240v ish (similar value to L to E reading anyway).

 

[Dave2010]

oh right cheers for that

yeah i check L-N and got 234V i think it was (not there now)

 

[streetlighter]

Try removing the capacitor from the circuit and see if the lamp will strike ive had this on lantern before.
Also check the lampholder to see if the centre contact is meeting the base of the lamp.
Is the replacement lamp a 70 watt SON-E/I it should have a triangle with an i inside if it has internal ignitor.

 

[AdrianUK]

Assuming that this fitting does NOT have an internal ignitor....... replace the SON lamp with a standard 60W GLS lamp. It should light, a little dimmer than if straight across the mains but is a quick & reliable method to prove the the fitting is live & that the ballst is not o/c

Adrian

 

[Dave2010]

hey guys

thanks for all the great info

found out that the problem was when wired to terminals 1 & 2 it must damage/blow the ignitor/lamp. Replaced again with another new lamp and terminal 1 & 4 and all is great

again cheers

 

[Lectrician]

Yes it would as the two top terminals are common-ish. The ballast would then not "choke back" the current, causing failure of the lamp.

 

[streetlighter]

Assuming that this fitting does NOT have an internal ignitor....... replace the SON lamp with a standard 60W GLS lamp. It should light, a little dimmer than if straight across the mains but is a quick & reliable method to prove the the fitting is live & that the ballst is not o/c

Adrian

Ive never herd of that method before but will give it a try in future. I was always taught to measure the voltage either side of the ballast and if the outgoing side was lower than 230 then the lamp is fine.