Hive Install with Danfoss Controllers

It looks like a Danfoss TP9000.


If so, this is a combined programmer and room thermostat as is the Hive, and in which case all of the existing wires in your photo below in terminals N, L, 3 and 4 go to exactly the same terminals of the Dual Channel Hive Receiver.


Simply remove the wires from terminals 5 & 6 they are for the remote sensor which will no longer be used.

Be careful to make sure that the conductors are in contact with the terminals, and not the insulation.
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I was wondering if someone could help me out.
I have a similar problem myself with this.

I live in a three storey new build and on my heating setup I have two TP5000's installed what each control zone valves what are fitted in my airing cupboard.
The downstairs thermostat controls heating on ground and middle floor. And top floor (3rd floor) thermostat just controls the heating on that floor.

Both thermostats are battery powered and only have the two wires connected to them with no blue neutral wire.
I was thinking of buying the hive heating control along with a additional one to replaced both of my danfoss ones.

In my airing cupboard I have two zone valves that are connected to the main wire centre.

Can anyone help me out? Looking at the hive wire setup it looks pretty straight forward but I'm missing the neutral wires in both my thermostats but I have grey wires there?
I'll include all pictures of my setup in the post.

I've included a setup from what another poster has used on another thread which looks similar to mine.



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What I’d be opting to do is use the wiring centre for supplying the live and neutral for the Hive(s) and disconnecting the wiring for the Danfoss ones. If not using another Hive then opt to keep a Danfoss, or get one that’s battery powered.
As you have figured, you don't have the necessary neutral at the thermostats now. So, unless you wan't to run new wires out from the wiring centre to both thermostats, and have the receivers on the wall where the thermostats are now (not a good look) then the best way would be to mount the Hive receivers in the "airing cupboard" next to the wiring centre (check the location is as per the Hive instructions) and the Hive thermostats should then go where the existing thermostats are located.

I will explain how I would do one of the thermostats, using a single channel version of Hive. The other will be a repeal of the same process:

1) Trace the two wires from one of the thermostats back to the wiring centre, either physically or by using a multimeter. Note which two terminals the wires are connected to and remove the old thermostat cable from the wiring centre. [Hint: one of the wires will be connected to the brown wire of the motorised valve]

2) From the vacant terminals where the two thermostat wires have just been removed from, one should be a permanent live. Test with a multimeter to find out which one, and connect that to the Hive single channel terminal (1) Common

3) The second terminal will be for the switched live, connect that to the Hive single channel terminal (3) Heating on

4) The Hive needs a permanent live to provide it with operating power it, so this can be done by linking Hive terminal (1) Common, to the Hive (L) terminal

5) The Hive also needs a neutral to provide it with operating power it. This can be done by connecting the (N) terminal to the same connection as the blue neutral wires from the motorised valves.

Repeat the process for the second Thermostat, be careful not to install them the wrong way around so that the top floor thermostat is controlling the lower floor radiators and vice versa.
zone valves what are fitted in my airing cupboard.

As you have an "airing cupboard", that suggests that you may possibly have a hot water cylinder too? If so, the wiring is more complicated as one of the Hive's would need to be a dual channel version and whatever device is controlling the hot water will need to be removed and its wiring moved over to the dual channel Hive. If you don't have a hot water cylinder, then two single channel Hives will do the job as described above.
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Stem that is brillaint mate, thanks for taking the time to reply.

I was thinking I would have to fit both receivers where the thermostats currently are but your way sounds better!
I'll go ahead and order them now and will post how I get on.

Just a question on this...

5) The Hive also needs a neutral to provide it with operating power it. This can be done by connecting the (N) terminal to the same connection as the blue neutral wires from the motorised valves.

As there is 3 wires currently going to the TP5000's but only the black and brown and being used and there is two grey wires not being used in the wiring centre, Would I be able to use them as the neutrals as they are already in there?
(See pictures)

I've included a diagram of another guys set up on another thread but he used hive duel and single receivers.



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Sorry, just realised I'm being a dumbass!
Your saying add new wires from the wiring centre to the hive receivers in the airing cupboard and making the existing ones to the thermostats redundant arent you?

Just 4 core 1.0 mm round flex cable to use?

I say airing cupboard but it's a cupboard feeding off the heat from the zone valve pipes! it is a combi.

Thanks mate
Your saying add new wires from the wiring centre to the hive receivers in the airing cupboard and making the existing ones to the thermostats redundant arent you?

Yep, that's the idea.

You could use the 'spare' grey wire (assuming you can connect the other end to a neutral terminal) to provide a neutral to the existing thermostat location, however, do you really want to have the receivers mounted on the wall where the existing thermostats are with the Hive thermostat at the side.

1mm cable is fine.
Hi stem,
Hope your well mate.
Everything got delivered this morning so I'm just about to give it a go.
I have wired up one of the thermostats reading to connect to the wiring centre.
Can you confirm that this is right in what I'm doing?

Thanks mate


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Nice job. Looks good to me, in that you have wires in the correct terminals. Of course the connections at the other end are just as important.

It shouldn't be fitted to the carpet though.:D
Haha nice one stem. Well I managed to fit them both yesterday, all up and running.

Took me a couple of hours to do.
Thankfully it was easy to identify what wires were powering which zone and thermostats.
I just left the wires to the old thermostats where they were in case I was ever to fit the originals danfoss ones back in.

Was worried ide put the receivers to close to the zone valve pipes what do you think?

Thanks for all your help mate.

I've included photos of the set up if anyone else has a similar set up to mine.


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Hey, nice job well done!

If I was being really picky, I might mention that a grey wire is usually used as a 'live' so I would slide a blue sleeve over it at both ends to identify it as a neutral. I know it's connected to a terminal marked N at one end, so pretty obvious really. Like I said, being picky here. It's a far better installation than I've seen some 'professionals' do. The terminations look good also, not too much exposed copper.

Ideally, redundant wires should be removed completely, or at least insulated to prevent them coming into contact with something they shouldn't by mistake, although I see you have tucked them out of the way.

I wouldn't be worried about the receivers being too close to the pipes. Large metal objects e.g. boilers, fridges etc., can screen the thermostat from the receiver and block the signal, but as it's all working, then all is well. From a heat point of view they're not that close and the pipes are silvered to minimise radiation anyway.
Brillaint cheers stem.

Did think about sleeving the neutrals but I'll probably be taking the Hives with me when I come to sell up so I'll stick the rubbish danfoss ones back in:LOL:

Onto my next mission of putting a outside tap in!

Cheers mate(y)
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