Hive wiring

[Josh_]

Good afternoon,
After a bit of help with my hive wiring.

I was hoping to use the existing wiring in my Honeywell cm707 thermostat/programmer, however so far as I can see I just have a permanent and switch live/ call for heat? Will I need a common installing for the hive to work please see attatchment for ref:

Thanks in advance.

 

[Echo the husky]

You can use the existing wiring. The 'common' will come from a short wire link to the live terminal.

 

[Josh_]

Thanks very much for the speedy reply. I thought this may be the case, I assume the grey with the blue sleeve is the permanent neutral, terminal A is live and the b terminal is the call for heat? At least that's what I get from the diagram. I always thought brown was live....

 

[Echo the husky]

Yes to neutral. Brown is most commonly permanent live, you will have to test. As the old controller just joined the 2 wires together it didn't matter which way they were connected.

 

[Josh_]

Thanks, much appreciated will tackle this tomorrow and tell you how it went

 

[Josh_]

So had a go how I thought it should be and receiver still won't light up green. So it's as if it has no power!

It apears both the brown and black wires are live on testing? I wonder if I've blown the receiver? Or got a dud! Any other suggestions?

 

[Josh_]

For ref I routed neutral to n brown L with a link to 1 and the black to 3.

 

[stem]

The question is, is which wire is actually the live and which is the switched live? The live could be the brown, or it could be the black with the brown sleeve. As your previous thermostat was battery powered it just acted as a switch and so didn't need a live to power it and didn't matter which way around they went.

Swap the black & brown wires in 1 & 3 ('com' and 'heating on') over, and keep the link between L & Com as it is. What happens now?

 

[Josh_]

Thanks for the reply just washing the car, but will do that next. My concern is ruining the receiver.. surely if they're both live the receiver should have power still?

 

[stem]

My concern is ruining the receiver.. surely if they're both live the receiver should have power still?

No. Terminal 3 'heating on' won't be connected to anything until the thermostat is energised. So, if you have the permanent live connected to terminal 3 it will not be connected to anything and the unit will not be energised, and nothing will happen. If the permanent live goes to terminal 1 it will also supply the receiver via the link to 'L'

Normally, as Echo stated, brown is usually used for the permanent live, however it's at the discretion of the initial installer as to which colours he or she uses for what.

If you look at your photograph, the Black wire is connected to terminal A which the diagram in the lid is shown as connected to L, so in your case Black may actually be the permanent live. You won't damage the receiver swapping two wires that are both live over.

 

[WabbitPoo]

Did you put a link to common from the incoming L terminal?

 

[stem]

Did you put a link to common from the incoming L terminal?

Try reading the thread properly!

I routed neutral to n brown L with a link to 1

and

keep the link between L & Com as it is.

 

[Josh_]

So here is where we are at now, but still no light on the receiver to say it's working. So it must be the receiver at this point as I've tried both ways must be a dud from the factory.

 

[Johnmdc]

Do you have a volt meter?
Test between the brown and grey and then the black and grey.
Do either give you a reading of about 230 volts? If not then the grey might not be connected at the other end.
You could also test between brown and earth then black and earth.
So long as the earth wire is connected at the other end then which ever gives you a reading of 230 volts will be the permanent live and the other the switched live.
This is all assuming that your boiler uses mains voltage switching. Which boiler is it?

 

[stem]

Not necessarily. You need to check and find out what all of the wires are. It may be that the blue / grey wire isn't connected to a neutral at the other end. Maybe it isn't connected, it wasn't used before. Do you have a multimeter to check that you have 230v across the L & N terminals?