Hob,oven and extractor

[goosergus]

Ok i can see there are lot of topics posted on hobs and ovens but non specific to my enquiry so i will be as specific as poss.

1 x single oven fan assisted (moulded plug)
1 x Gas hob with moulded plug (for ignition)
1 x Extractor with two core flex, bare wires at end.

Can i wire a double spur from a nearby kitchen circuit double and plug in both aplliances and also wire in extractor to spur socket terminals or am i putting too much on a spur.(effectively three items on a double spur)

Or should each appliance have its own fused socket and can i wire these into the circuit rather than spur each one

Also i want to locate the spur/sockets on the opposite side of a wall near to the appliances so they are out of sight but still easily accessible. They will be within the kitchen area there are no obstructions/doors between the appliances and the connection point.
If i am going through the wall i will need to remove the plugs for the hob and oven so can i simply hard wire them or will i need to replace the plugs

 

[Steve]

The correct way to do this is to have 3 fused switched spurs above the worktop, supplying 2 sockets below the worktop and a socket above a kitchen cabinet or the extractor position. Instead of sockets you could use flex outlet plates, this eliminates the problems of having 2 equal fuses in line.

For the spurs issue, could you not extend the ring main to the new switched spurs?

 

[goosergus]

For the spurs issue, could you not extend the ring main to the new switched spurs?

By this i take it you mean to actually make all three switched spurs part of the kitchen socket circuit and therefore not really spurs but actually in the ring main.

Am i okay to site these "spurs" and sockets on the opposite side of the wall to keep them out of view.

 

[JohnD]

Hiding them isn't really the best idea, since one of the uses of the switch is to turn off the power in an emergency, e.g. the tumble drier catches fire (they do) or your child gets his arm stuck in the washing machine. So they need to be visible, and obvious what they're for.

My preferred approach is to use 20A DP switches with neon above the worktop, one above the position of each appliance, with an unswitched socket outlet below the worktop (or, for the extractor hood, a flex outlet high up the wall next to the hood, and with a fused FCU at the worktop.

This gives you one switch, and one fuse, per appliance, which is the optimum number, and enables you to unplug the appliance when you take it out for cleaning, repair or replacement.

The switches are ideally included in the row of outlets above the worktop, which is very easy and economical to install, as well as neat.