Hot water but no central heating - Ideal Logic 24

It's not a boiler fault as if there was demand for heating there would be a C in the display.
You could bridge out the external controls inside the boiler at the terminal strip but as the combustion case has to come off for that I'm afraid you can't do that.

Could do it from the receiver back plate though ;)

Jon
But there could still be a wiring fault between plate and boiler. ;);)
 
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It's not a boiler fault as if there was demand for heating there would be a C in the display.
You could bridge out the external controls inside the boiler at the terminal strip but as the combustion case has to come off for that I'm afraid you can't do that.

Could do it from the receiver back plate though ;)

Jon
But there could still be a wiring fault between plate and boiler. ;);)

That there could my dear Sham but if he did link it at the base plate and it works it will help the diagnosis. If the OP could link out all external controls and still not create a demand at the boiler then he knows that an RGI is needed to continue as the fault lies within the casing.
 
Okay I have no idea how to do all of that (I did re-sync the thermostat this,opening though to no avail), it sounds like you're saying to remove the boiler casing and change some wiring to connect to the controls, am I right?
 
No thats not what we are saying you cant do that, your last pic shows that both your programmer and room stat are calling for heat but the boiler display shows 0 (no call for heat) so as already said its more likely to be a problem with one of your external controls than the boiler
 
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Thanks, so there's literally nothing I can do before the plumber comes out to service it next week, except freeze and pay through the nose for the electricity costs of running a plug in heater? :(
 
No.

I know someone who might be able to do it if it's a relatively simple job for someone competent though if you could give me some kind of instruction on what needs to be done?
 
Probably best left then in all honesty and leave it to the RGI to carry out the appropriate checks.
 
If there's something that he might be able to do to get it fired up tomorrow, it's worth shooting it my way if you don't mind? Thanks
 
OK. First off isolate all power using the isolating switch.

On the side of the wireless receiver are two tabs. Push these in and the front cover will pull forward showing the wiring.

Test to ensure wiring is dead.

Link terminal A and B

Pop cover back on and re establish power and see if you get a call for demand then. (ensuring programmer is on)

If no joy with that then isolate power again and remove programmer to expose wiring.

Again check that wiring is dead.

Now link 1 and 4 in the programmer.

Replace programmer and re establish power and see if you get a call for demand.

If not then you will need an RGI.

Put all wiring back as it was (taking photos and labeling before is the best thing to do)


Hope that helps.

Jon
 
Thanks Jon, I will see if we can do it tomorrow (I know a retired electrician who HOPEFULLY can help). Will report back.
 
Same reason my picture is a dog but I'm not licking my gentitals. It's just a username ;)
 
The plumber/engineer came today (two days early, can't complain!) and did pretty much what Aquaheat said, the thermostat receiver wasn't sending any signal through to the boiler, the timer is still working, so he changed the wiring to let us control the temperature directly from the boiler, and will install a more reliable one at a later date.

Thanks for the help, I hope this thread will be handy for anyone else stuck in my position in future, heating is such a pain in the @$$, something we take for granted until it breaks, especially when you have elderly and vulnerable people in the household, so it's great to have these forums to fall back on. Cheers.
 

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