Hot water low pressure after Diverter Valve replacement

[Gorguruga]

I recently had an engineer over to change a Diverter Valve. Noticed now that the hot water pressure is much lower than it previously was before (prior to and also during the Diverter Valve leak). The engineer also bled the radiators at the time - I think 3 of them were affected by the trapped air.

Is there an easy way for me to get the water pressure back to normal? It's affecting all taps - kitchen, bathroom and of course most noticeably the shower. The shower is much weaker than it once was, it's still almost acceptable but not the power-shower force that it had before. Any tips appreciated.

Boiler is Vaillant EcoTec 831 Plus.

 

[Johnmdc]

The work done shouldn't affect the water out of the taps.
Was the stop tap turned off? Has it been turned back on fully?

 

[Dan Robinson]

Could be the filling loop not back in the correct position.

 

[Agile]

Rather than Pressure" I think that you mean "flow rate".

As Dan says the valves underneath may not have been returned to exactly the right position.

A little trick is not to mess them up with a screwdriver but instead to use a good radiator bleed key.

Tony

 

[Gorguruga]

The work done shouldn't affect the water out of the taps.
Was the stop tap turned off? Has it been turned back on fully?

I don't think it was touched. I remember asking the engineer about the stop tap just at the beginning of the job because I noticed that he dived straight into the work without touching the stop tap. (In my uneducated analysis, I thought this would mean that water would gush out of the Diverter Valve when he removed it - but it didn't).

He said "a stop tap shouldn't need to be touched if the work is done correctly" - or something along those lines. But, I don't think it's actually on "fully" at the moment, and I don't believe it was turned fully on before the work was done either.

Should I try turning it fully on to see if it fixes the problem?

 

[Gorguruga]

Could be the filling loop not back in the correct position.

The engineer remarked that "there is no filling loop" at the time the work was being done.

 

[Gorguruga]

Rather than Pressure" I think that you mean "flow rate".

As Dan says the valves underneath may not have been returned to exactly the right position.

A little trick is not to mess them up with a screwdriver but instead to use a good radiator bleed key.

Tony

"Flow rate" sounds like a good description. The water just doesn't flow out of the taps with the same vigour that it did previously - especially noticeable with the hot water.

I did notice the engineer was fiddling about with a screwdriver underneath the boiler. I don't have a radiator bleed key but could I fiddle about with a screwdriver in a specific place under there and fix the flow rate?

 

[Agile]

You need to look at the line of the two slots towards the right hand side.

The filling loop is build into the boiler!

I don't like them because when they get sludged up they are far more difficult to clear.

Yesterday I went to a 33 year old Vaillant boiler, so they can have a rather longer lifetime than the cheap Heatlines!

Tony

 

[DP]

Rather than Pressure" I think that you mean "flow rate".

As Dan says the valves underneath may not have been returned to exactly the right position.

A little trick is not to mess them up with a screwdriver but instead to use a good radiator bleed key.

Tony

Are you sure about the bleed key
I have never had to use the bleed key, but Allen key rings a bell

 

[Steelmasons]

Turbomax used the 'vent key/flat driver" , ecotec uses plastic levers.

Iso valves use the 4mm allen key DP.

 

[DP]

I was 99.9% sure ( being the owner user of said boiler )
Have never used a bleed key on the ecotec

 

[Agile]

If your boiler has ( or had ) the grey plastic knobs on the filling valves, then they usually become spoiled and do not fully turn the shaft.

In this case remove the small screw, pull off the plastic and look at the machined flats and see what line they are in.

 

[Gorguruga]

Don't know if I should make a new thread about this but I had been away on business two days after the repair was done. Luckily I left the original bowl under there which was collecting the water from the diverter valve leak.

Great news - the boiler is still leaking. Seems to be from the CH Inlet pipe underneath (which I think is connected to the Diverter Valve inside). I remember the engineer adjusted that during the repair and water sprayed everywhere so he quickly tightened it back up. Looks like he hasn't tightened it enough.

The owner of the company said the work is guaranteed so it's reasonable for me to expect them to come around and fix this problem for no extra charge. The work hasn't been completed successfully for the price they quoted. I guess this is where I find out for sure if they're genuine or not?

 

[DP]

If your boiler has ( or had ) the grey plastic knobs on the filling valves, then they usually become spoiled and do not fully turn the shaft.

In this case remove the small screw, pull off the plastic and look at the machined flats and see what line they are in.

Beg to differ Tony
What you say may well be the case for Landan water, but water the meanders down the Scottish slopes is what whiskey is made from so unlikely to kill the spindle on the fill valve.
As I have said before, bleed key does not fit any of the valve on the ecotec 831

 

[DP]

Turbomax used the 'vent key/flat driver" , ecotec uses plastic levers.

Iso valves use the 4mm allen key DP.

Steel, is it any wonder I have such a key in place under my boiler to carry out the dirty deed?