Hot water low pressure after Diverter Valve replacement

No - you just don't hear the answers you WANT to hear. Post a picture that is clear, or don't bother seeking advice. Simples.

Service valves on boiler are universally crap. You have no idea what the various bits of the valve do and haven't clearly indicates which bit is leaking. Ergo, the advice given is the advice based on years of experience and the quality of the information given.

My last car's clutch was fine until my brother drove it. Did I blame him for it failing? No. I considered all the other variables other than the simple and obvious.

The "you touched it last" argument from customers is supremely annoying and seldom relevant; usually tried on by whinging little ingrates looking for a freebie.


It may be something he has broken, but so far I'm thinking, not so much.

Catch-22 I suppose. Easy cop-out to blame the equipment for your own mistakes though. Plumber might damage equipment while trying to rush the work and then he turns around and claims that it's standard wear and tear, absolving himself of all responsibility.
 
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Catch 22 has nothing to do with it. A service valve leaking when used has nothing to do with the engineers ability or care. It has everything to do with the quality of the product and/or the water in the system.

Your system water is likely to be atrocious which is what caused the leaking diverter valve.

Yes, this doesn't affect the incoming mains service valve? Well, not if you're in a hard water area and the water isn't treated.

Post a reasonable picture up and the advice might change. Like I said, we can only go on experience and information given.

BTW - poor workmanship is regularly blasted on this forum so don't assume that engineers are favoured.
 
Catch 22 has nothing to do with it. A service valve leaking when used has nothing to do with the engineers ability or care. It has everything to do with the quality of the product and/or the water in the system.

Your system water is likely to be atrocious which is what caused the leaking diverter valve.

Yes, this doesn't affect the incoming mains service valve? Well, not if you're in a hard water area and the water isn't treated.

Post a reasonable picture up and the advice might change. Like I said, we can only go on experience and information given.

BTW - poor workmanship is regularly blasted on this forum so don't assume that engineers are favoured.


It's a bit of a give-away that the new leak started immediately after the plumber left, and it started in an area that the plumber had adjusted with the screwdriver, initially causing a jet of water to spray out. I'm not saying he's a poor workman anyway. Not tightening that screw enough is a mistake that could easily be made because it's not immediately apparent that it's still a bit loose. When I tightened it some more earlier with the pliers, the only way I could tell that it had been tightened further is because the leak had noticeably slowed down.
 
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No, I just can't be a7sed.

You have been asked several times to post a workable picture, but you continual to prattle on. I have a lot to do today and am going to crack on with more important things.
 
No, I just can't be a7sed.

You have been asked several times to post a workable picture, but you continual to prattle on. I have a lot to do today and am going to crack on with more important things.

Have fun with your spanner :rolleyes:
 
I'm thinking that you should have your flow rate on your mains supply checked by the water board. A simple basic test you can try yourself is to fully turn on your wash hand basin cold tap and watch it for a few seconds to get used to the water flow now flush the wc keeping your eye on the flow from the tap all the time. Did you notice a difference in the flow from the tap when the toilet was flushed? If you did, your mains flow issue is almost certainly the cause of your low pressure problem. Servotech
 
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OP, old style lightbulbs that were at the end of their lives, used to blow the moment they were turned on. Therefore by your logic the person who turned it on was responsible for the bulb blowing.

Dan speaks the truth.

Isolation valves sometimes leak when used.

You also seem to have no idea of the true function of the 'screw'.
 
No, that's the engineers fault since that pipe wasn't leaking until the engineer unscrewed it. His action of unscrewing it literally caused the new leak. I actually saw him unscrew that area, then a gush of water sprayed out and he quickly screwed it back - right at the start of the job. He obviously didn't screw it back tight enough.

This may be difficult for you to understand.

The engineer unscrewed "something". Its not clear exactly what was unscrewed.

He then screwed "it" back.

It then leaked afterwards.

Now the difficult part.

You blame the engineer, not obviously why.

But could you understand if the engineer correctly unscrewed and screwed but the poorly matched parts did not seal properly afterwards?
 
Whilst I can understand what you are all are saying here and a lot of customers do have a bad attitude!
Do they also blame the last mechanic who fixed their car when something else goes wrong with it or even their doctor when they become unwell?
No!
But it is a fact of our trade that they're always very willing to blame the plumber for anything that goes wrong!

However,the poster does have a problem with low water pressure that requires our investigation.

Just reminding everyone that "We are a service industry"
Servotech
 
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The evidence seems to point that we have a householder who thinks it is fair game to get a tradesman in to fix one problem and then expect him to mop up all the other age related defects on his system, for free, whilst he is there.

We had a similar issue a year ago, where we closed and then opened a towel rail valve as part of a powerflush routine, and the spindle snapped. Customer was adamant that we'd broken it and therefore it had to be replaced at our cost. Nearest merchant for a matching one was 20 miles away. I expect many of the tradesmen here will have come across some cheap imported chrome in line valves that regularly snap internally.

I suppose a good analogy would be that you go to a friends house and open the window, it falls clean out of the frame into the street below. Are you going to arrange for a new window and get it fitted?

Just for the record, we changed the valve because the customer's wife said we'd broken it; at our cost, a few days later. But I don't think we were treated ethically. Sometimes you just have to suck it up.

I'm behind the tradesman in this instance.
 
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Anyway it's all ******? That's not a screw to be loosened? That's the fill loop connection? Where is the non return valve and hose that comes with the boiler ? It's missing and the valve is passing, no amount of tightening will fix that... U need a new fill loop , not plumbers fault I'm afraid, he would have needed to move the valve to fill ,,, just ur bad luck
 

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