House rewire queries

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I'm going to be renovating my house and will be adding sockets, moving/replacing the boiler, and moving/replacing the old fuse box quiet a distance away. So may just rewire while I'm at the renovation.

Currently it is an old fuse box with just a few fuses (maybe 4). The amount of sockets in the house is pretty low.
The house is a 3 bed detached, and in the future I will do an extension to create a 4th maybe 5th. Possible built in 1980s

In the end of this upcoming renovation I will want to have; 1 electric shower, 1 combi boiler ~30kw, ~30 double sockets, 1 induction hob (on an island), 1 electric single oven (not on island), 5 lights upstairs, 4 light fittings + ~10 spot lights downstairs, a wired alarm (possibly), 1 outdoor rear light, 1 outdoor front light, in-line extractor fan in kitchen (30w)
I'm considering doing the chasing myself, and having an electrician do the CU wiring and maybe do the fittings wiring

Link to hob
No details on boiler, shower, or oven

Looking at this CU CLICK


I've done a fair amount of reading, and have a few questions. - I will discuss these things with my electrician, but I am just buying some of the stuff and doing research before hand

Am i allowed to do the chasing?

RCD + MCB or RCBO - All i can see is that an RCBO would make it so if anything trips, it doesn't take out other stuff. Is it worth it?

Is the 40amp RCD for a shower? usually showers have a 45-50 amp fused switch

I may only need 6mm cabling for the shower, but would it hurt if I used 10mm? I ask as these cables are the ones that usually burn out, hoping this would prevent that

Can i put the CU in an airing cupboard (no storage tank) upstairs? or does it need to be close to the incoming supply?

can I feed Cat6/satellite cabling along side electricity cabling?

My induction hob requires a 30amp fuse -does this mean I have to have a fuse box/fuse switch located near it, or can I connect it directly to the CU?
The island will have it's own circuit and only have the hob + 2-4 sockets + some led lighting. Can I run this on a radial, or a ring. And should I use a 32amp MCB?
 
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I will discuss these things with my electrician, but I am just buying some of the stuff and doing research before hand
Get them to design the installation first, then discuss how much of the work you can do yourself, then buy the materials.
 
In all honesty your questions are leaning more towards you actually doing the work and not having someone in to do it. As its a rewire this needs certain certs/sign off/building notifications etc... But if you genuinely are going to get an electrician to do the work you need to speak to them and tell them what you want/need and they will advise what needs to be bought/done and what you can and cannot do. They have to sign off the work so if you haven't agreed what work you will do they might be unwilling to sign it off and it might cost you more in the long run.

You can chase all you want as long as its done right and doesn't affect the integrity of the wall. As for laying cables in it that depends on how deep, the materials going over it, capping etc... and if the electrician will even permit you lay them in. (speak to your electrician)

RCBO are a good option for those circuits you want to keep on their own and don't want them affecting or being affected by anything else that trips i.e fridge, freezer, alarm etc...

As for the cat5/sat cables, run them as far away as possible from any electrical cable to avoid interference, although this will be unavoidable in certain places.

I have not responded about the other stuff as there's not enough information for some things and this could lead to a DIY job or you wasting money on unnecessary things. Again speak to the electrician about getting it designed right from the beginning, they will be more than happy to discuss it through with you I'm sure.
 
Ye, first thing was to see if I can do that sort of work. I'm having an extension done too, so have building control anyway.

Just a lot of unexpected costs so trying to see where I can save money on the grunt work.
 
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I wouldn't go for that BG CU, they're not the best. You're better off sticking to a decent brand like Hager. You might end up paying a bit more in the short term but it's a better investment.

That being said, those BG CU's are bombproof. Had to fit one that someone had bought, took me an age to knock out the knockouts
 
Thought BG was a decent brand.ive bought a bunch of USB sockets that are BG

I'll check Hagar though. I'd prefer to do things once for the next 20 years
 
first thing was to see if I can do that sort of work.
I'm having an extension done too, so have building control anyway.
Yes, but if you do it yourself, you will have to design, install and test the installation to BS7671 to the satisfaction of building control. With respect, your questions indicate you do not have the required levels of competence, and I'll expect that you do not have a full set of calibrated test equipment that will enable you to complete the necessary Installation certification?

Your best route is to engage an electrician and agree with him what you can do. Most electricians don't enjoy chasing out walls and sinking boxes, so you may be able to save some ££ by doing that bit. but it needs to be done under his/her guidance.

BTW, you may want to read this information in the WIKI
DIY Electrical Work and the Law
 
Ye, first thing was to see if I can do that sort of work. I'm having an extension done too, so have building control anyway.
So - let's start with a very important Q re that.

  • When you applied for Building Regulations approval, what did you tell them, or allow them to assume, would be the way you would ensure compliance with Part P?

I don't ask that because I'm their unpaid enforcer, but because what you should do, and therefore what you should be advised to do, does depend very much on what you told them you'd do. If you told them A and then go and do B, expect it all to go wrong for you.
 

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