How best should I re-wire this? (split post)

[ban-all-sheds]

My largest pan is 310mm in diameter, which is not uncommonly large.

What would happen if I wanted to use it on the front right zone?

You can't !!

So another triumph of stupid k***-head design over function.

 

[Paul_C]

Managed to get the PDF of the manual now, so I see the connection arrangements for basic single-phase or connection to either two phases of a three-phase supply or to a single-phase 3-wire supply. The instructions refer to both 220V (the common European nominal voltage) and 230V (the new "Euro" standard), so maybe 450V was chosen as the line-to-line voltage of the average? It would be a very odd way of specifying it on the tag though, considering that it could be strapped for single-phase 220-230V or for use on two phases of 220/380V (230/400V). And you can't actually run it on just 450V, since the elements are for 220/230V.

And the 45A figure still doesn't add up (even at 230V). That would be around 10kW, not 6kW, so unless the hob has had its power rating increased drastically from the original specification in the manual it makes no sense.

 

[Chri5]

Just signed up, as there seem to be some knowledge on the subject. Now, I'm not a tradesman or the like, but fairly comptenet DIYer.

Are you a motor forum person I know living in Edinburgh ?

Oven - 3400W, 1.5-2.5mm cable, can be 13A plug'd if need be
Hob - 6000W, 4-6mm cable, 45A

I replaced the Oven about 1 yr ago but hob has sat in box (many reasons why hob not fitted at same time) but now its going to be fitted.

Behind the oven are 2x 13A switches (not sockets), in vertical placement one directly above the other. One wired to the Cooker Switch above the counter (big Red switch with light), the other into god-knows where but cabling is fairly chunky.

At your main fuse board is all this switching wired as 1 cct and what is the amp rating ?

For you to do as you intend, if they are all on once circuit the potential load (no diversity considered) is 9400w /230v = 40 amp.
So has the circuit been fused at 45 amp ?

Since all switches for isolation (say a chip pan fire) need to be accessible you need to move the switches.

So something such as 2 x

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MKK5105.html

Those are 32A MK switches, the 45A feed from the CU would terminate in 1 and then be extended to the other forming a 2 position radial. You would then require 2 x 4mm feeder cables from the switches to the appliances.

There's a scheme called SELECT in Edinburgh, which is the Scots part P and you will require a spark for certification.

 

[SixDegrees]

Just signed up, as there seem to be some knowledge on the subject. Now, I'm not a tradesman or the like, but fairly comptenet DIYer.

Are you a motor forum person I know living in Edinburgh ?

Oven - 3400W, 1.5-2.5mm cable, can be 13A plug'd if need be
Hob - 6000W, 4-6mm cable, 45A

I replaced the Oven about 1 yr ago but hob has sat in box (many reasons why hob not fitted at same time) but now its going to be fitted.

Behind the oven are 2x 13A switches (not sockets), in vertical placement one directly above the other. One wired to the Cooker Switch above the counter (big Red switch with light), the other into god-knows where but cabling is fairly chunky.

At your main fuse board is all this switching wired as 1 cct and what is the amp rating ?

For you to do as you intend, if they are all on once circuit the potential load (no diversity considered) is 9400w /230v = 40 amp.
So has the circuit been fused at 45 amp ?

Since all switches for isolation (say a chip pan fire) need to be accessible you need to move the switches.

So something such as 2 x

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MKK5105.html

Those are 32A MK switches, the 45A feed from the CU would terminate in 1 and then be extended to the other forming a 2 position radial. You would then require 2 x 4mm feeder cables from the switches to the appliances.

There's a scheme called SELECT in Edinburgh, which is the Scots part P and you will require a spark for certification.

Just outside Edinburgh, and yes the same SixDegress as per TSN, TT, etc.



From an isolation perspectibe the intended solution would mean oven and hob would be connected to the main Cooker Switch above the counter, so switches located behind the oven (non-accesible) are negated.

Had a look at the main switch board (in garage) and there is no immediate indication as to what fuse [rating] is in there, so will need to find out.

I guess, as stated above, if I were to install a free-standing cooker with hob then this would simply be wired to the existing cooker point with appropriate wiring, so apart from the max load, ie everything on at one time (never had more than 2 rings and an oven on at any one time and its usually one ring) then 45A reqt shouldn't be an issue.

I'll ask a spark, unless someone can recommend one. My issue here is that they could say I need XYZ and charge me more than I require.... recession is biting hard for some trades people!!!!