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How best to pack out a wall

Discussion in 'Plastering and Rendering' started by RichA, 24 Jan 2019.

  1. RichA

    RichA

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    I have an alignment difference where my extension (100mm cavity) meets the original house (approx 75mm cavity). My builder is complaining that the plans didn't have any difference and is looking at a variation$.

    How is this best to pack this out?
    Is there an issue with leaving it? (it will be behind a kicthen unit)

    Is this something I can easily DIY? (Builder would plaster afterwards)

    Thanks.

    IMG_2667.JPG
     
  2. ktuludays

    ktuludays

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    What's going on the walls. I'll assume plasterboard in which case it just needs battening to bring the levels to match. Any builder should do that without question.
     
  3. Motman

    Motman

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    Couldn’t you just have your builder plaster/render the painted section after roughing up the surface with a comb chisel maybe?
     
  4. Notch7

    Notch7

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    You got a grumbling builder -what he means is 'It wasnt on the plans, therefore Its not in my price and I want to charge as an extra'

    He is IMO making a fuss about nothing. He has either underpriced the job and is irritated by this bit of work he hasnt considered, or he is a 'quote cheap and make it up on extras'

    It would be easy to batten out the wall, plasterboard and then skim.

    What other 'extras' is he charging for?

    Builders do get a bad name for extras, which is often unfair, because in construction there are often unforseen issues that arise and customers that make lots of changes but dont want to pay extra. In this instance though, its a minor issue, that most builders would just deal with.
     
  5. garyo

    garyo

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    It's just the 900mm section of wall in the photo, right?

    I'd have just lost something that small in the dotndab process, maybe with an extra sheet of plasterboard.
     
  6. RichA

    RichA

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    It is an external wall; the builder was planning on plastering the remaining 4m wall. As this is setback by 20mm he can't skim straight over the top of this so wants to charge me to pack/plaster.

    Would it be a problem for me to pack out with timber, and then plasterboard up to / just past the wiggly brick line. He can then plaster up to my board.

    Would use 9.5mm plasterboard work best (similar thickness to plaster)?
     
  7. bobasd

    bobasd

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    presume its an solid external wall so just SBR the recess twice an then pull it out with 2 coats of lime an sand render.
    then 10mm render the whole 4.5m wall an then skim
     
  8. garyo

    garyo

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    I think he's saying that it's the 4.5m run that's set back, so it's a bit of a job. If you dont want to pay to batten it and can't win the argument with the builder then I'd probably look for ways of hiding it with a kitchen unit.
     
  9. bobasd

    bobasd

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    thanks for that.
    but how i see it is the toothed in brickwork is 20mm proud of the white painted recess.
    so pull out the recess an then do the whole 4.5 wall ie the 4m run an the .5m recess.
    am i still goin wrong?
     
  10. garyo

    garyo

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    That's what I thought too. Not sure why it can't just be built out with half a bag of bonding coat or thicker render if it's just that part?
     
  11. garyo

    garyo

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    Looking at the photo again, it is just that 900mm bit.

    I think the builders having a bit of a laugh complaining about that. Have you already rubbed him to the wrong way over other extras, rich?
     
  12. RichA

    RichA

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    The builder likes a variation. He can’t anticipate everything; so priced to the spec. This wasn’t on the plans/spec so is a variation...

    I am a low grade DIYer. What is likely to be the easiest way of packing. Batten & plasterboard?
     
  13. garyo

    garyo

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    If he's saying it's 20 quid extra then maybe they fair enough. I could have probably mixed up some bonding and levelled it out in the time it's taken to reply to this thread three times :)
     
  14. bobasd

    bobasd

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    garyo, spot on.

    OP, you or your builder is talkin rubbish - walls are built to settin out lines just so ther are no surprises.
    so no way can you suddenly arrive at a recess - "hey where did that come from".
    where was the brickies string line?

    youve already been advised by two of us who work in the trades how to pull the recess out into the same wall plane.
     
  15. RichA

    RichA

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    £400...

    The plans show the existing wall with a thickness that matches the new wall. The new walls have been built 300mm with a 100mm cavity for insulation/building standards. The builder didn't price to pack out the 275mm wall to 300mm to match the new wall.

    KitchenWall.JPG

    Therefore I might have a go at saving some cash.

    By bonding do you mean that dot/dab will be easier than timber batons. I plan oversail new brickwork by just enough to cover the jagged bricks.

    Builder will be plastering the new wall; what thickness do I need to create so that his plaster is level with my plasterboard? 9.5mm? or 12mm?

    Will dot/dab be ok to 'fill-out' the 20-25mm 'cavity'?

    KitchenWall2.png

    NB This is a kitchen. There will be a full height unit infront of this; but builder is advising it is still better not to leave as is. Are full heights units usually self supporting off floor, or do i need a baton to attach unit to?
     
    Last edited: 26 Jan 2019
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