How Do I Remove This Tap

[Homesafe]

You gonna need a few things to do, keep tapping up and sideways, and keep saying halilujah it will come off its just scaled together.
Oh I forgot a bucket full of perseverence.

 

[pbar]

Are you 100% positive there isn't a screw holding it on, Why else would the indice unscrew.

It holds the head on.
If I remember correctly its a square, not splines on these taps.

That's right, it is a 'square' bolt type thing which locates at the top, with the part of the tap which you turn for the water. It only slips on for about a quarter of an inch, can't believe how 'fused' the two have become.

 

[footprints]

OK this could strip the thread in the top, but you can always stick the red cap back with silicone.
How about trying to find a bolt that fit’s the top thread, put a spacer in the recess on top of the square shank then screw the bolt in to press on the spacer and pulling the two apart, bit like an extractor on a car brake drum.

If not do you know any explosive experts?

 

[pbar]

Thanks again for the help so far. Here are a couple more pics. The first one show the cold tap, taken apart obviously, the second pic is the hot tap, tried again using the various methods as advised, there us just no movement or give at all.

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• pbar
• 1 Sep 2013
• 1

Untitled

• pbar
• 1 Sep 2013
• 1

 

[sooey]

If you can undo the retaining nut below the basin a little that should allow you to pull the tap away from the basin by half an inch or so (pipe work allowing).
If you can do that you would then be able to screw the top screw back in a few turns and while holding the tap up by the cap, tap downwards on the top scew. A couple of sharp taps with something that won't mark it should do it.

 

[doitall]

Have you got something that will fit fairly snug in the top, then get someone to tap it down while you pull up

 

[Madrab]

After all this if it still isn't budging, I'd isolate the hot tap and remove it from the sink and then you can set about it without fear of damage to the sink.

 

[pbar]

If you can undo the retaining nut below the basin a little that should allow you to pull the tap away from the basin by half an inch or so (pipe work allowing).
If you can do that you would then be able to screw the top screw back in a few turns and while holding the tap up by the cap, tap downwards on the top scew. A couple of sharp taps with something that won't mark it should do it.

Can't do that I'm afraid, it's plumbed in the 'proper' way, with rigid copper pipe all the way up. The thread on the top cap is too small and fragile also really.

 

[pbar]

OK this could strip the thread in the top, but you can always stick the red cap back with silicone.
How about trying to find a bolt that fit’s the top thread, put a spacer in the recess on top of the square shank then screw the bolt in to press on the spacer and pulling the two apart, bit like an extractor on a car brake drum.

If not do you know any explosive experts?

I wouldn't really want to damage the small threaded cap, as that is what keeps the top in place (when it's not stuck solid that is). And sticking it together with silicone would cause me grief next time I need to get at it.

 

[Whitespirit66]

Well, if you can't get the head off, it's new tap time, which means removing taps. If you have to remove taps anyway, why don't you take the hot tap off to work on it? It's what you're going to have to do anyway if you resort to new taps.

Only 2 nuts, one smaller nut where pipe joins tap and larger back nut under sink holding tap to sink. (NB. Don't forget to fit a new 1/2" fibre washer between tap connector and base of tap on reassembly.)

Then you can wrap the tap body in some rag and put it in a vice. Then use a block of wood and hammer to drive the head off.

You can't do anything more violent with tap in situ, as new pampas sinks are hard to source these days. Worth a last go to save the tap.

 

[footprints]

OK one last suggestion this can be tried with the tap in situ but you risk damaging the basin, or with the tap removed and in a vice.

You can try opening the tap as far as possible then wrap some insulation tape around the head to minimise damage to your (now shiny) chrome, then use a large adjustable spanner on the head, while holding against the spout (whatever you do use sturdy gloves if you try it whilst still on the basin broken ceramic is extremely sharp!) continue trying to open the tap.

Hopefully the body will unscrew from the spout section, complete with washer. You can then secure the head resting on a vice, workmate, or whatever and drive the centre piece out with a few firm wacks on a drift.

 

[Madrab]

If all the trying hasn't budged it then I reckon the force that will be needed to remove it is eventually going to damage the tap one way or another by the looks of it unless you can get the tap off the sink.
You say it's plumbed in the 'proper' way in copper?
Shame though cause If it was there would be a isolation valve in there too making dismantling easier.

 

[pbar]

Thanks for the continued replies, I appreciate it. Yes, I did feel that taking the tap off may be the better option, though I don't think I'd have the right tools to hand. What on earth do you guys use to get 'up there', there is no access for a typical spanner, socket, wrench, etc. No isolator either, and copper pipe all the way up to the tap. I was going to ask if there was a way to unscrew/dismantle the tap in situ, but knowing how tight these things get, I doubt it will be achieveable with the method suggested, but I did try that previously, but not with any great force. I thought maybe angle grinding the top off, if I could source a replacement which is the same, however likely that is. Other than that, is there a name for the type of spanners you guys would use to get at the underneath connections. I would really hate to have to pay for taps, and a plumber, then new bath taps to match, and removal of the newly painted bath panel....all as an alternative to a single tap washer! I would really like to defeat this, and perhaps it would benefit you guys if you ever get this situation.

 

[footprints]

Just Google Basin spanner, loads of types from basic double ended crowsfoot type, to fancy spring loaded extendable ones.

 

[pbar]

Well, I've been trying everyday to fix this, trying to get it to come off, soaking it in vinegar/WD-40 every night, but still no joy.

So I bought a Swirl tap reviver kit, basin and bath set. Thought I would cut/angle grind the problem head off and use these revivers.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/swirl-traditional-bath-tap-reviver-kit-chrome-pair/20140

Been trying to fit the bath ones, it fits ok but I can't turn the tap off, it will just keep turning. I think because it is shorter than the existing old inner, it is not seating at the bottom, and the inner screw/thread just comes apart instead of reaching the tap base.

Is there anything available to combat this please, a spacer/attachment perhaps. Thanks.