How far to go when replacing a damaged floor?

Bou

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A portion of the kitchen floor in my new flat has been very badly damaged by a long-term leak from the washing machine (waste) outlet. I don't think there's wet rot but it urgently needs repairing. The question is.. how far to go? I have had two quotes from joiners (both recommended).. the first one tells me I need only replace the bad damage.. the second one tells me I should have the whole kitchen floor replaced (including taking out and replacing existing units) as the rest of the floor is stained. Which one do I go with? I know which is the cheapest option but is it better to be safe than sorry? The floor is going to be covered by new lino anyway....
Any help very gratefully received! :D
 
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heeeelllloooo bou and welcome
all depends on the dammage
assuming its chipboard it could have spread quite away
if its blown [swollen] it should be replaced
if its stained but not blown near to the edge you may get away with it try prodding [with a screwdriver]the area thats stained it should sound quite solid if you penetrate the surface its had it
i am surprized he wants to replace the whole kitchen but having said that the carcases are usualy chipboard which is simmilar to the flooring again assuming chipboard
suggest you get another person in to quote
 
The first Joiner is right and the second Joiner sounds like he is having a slack period and needs to invent some work.
As long as the damaged area is replaced then the staining will not matter to the rest of the floor.
 
Thanks Big Al! I've tried the screwdriver test and the stained wood FEELS solid but it is badly stained.. sigh.. i think i'll get one more quote just to make sure.
PS The floor is apparently made out of plywood which the first joiner told me was better than chipboard and would have absorbed more water.
 
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Bou said:
The floor is apparently made out of plywood which the first joiner told me was better than chipboard and would have absorbed more water.
Depends if the plywood is exterior as it has waterproof glue between layers of ply and interior doesn't. Again the same with chipboard (Grade 5) which is moisture resistance. The Grade 4 chipboard is not moisture resisitance.
 
as masona says its a different ball game

plywood dosnt expand it delaminates all the layers come appart thus you loose the strenth screwdrive test will only tell to its rotton not delaminated
i would expect the chippie to be quite heavy handed with a screwdriver or hammer to have any idea of how badly dammaged the floor is
because its ply the water would tend to lie on the surface
what sort of floor covering was on top and did it cover the whole floor [including under the units]
and how come you didnt notice any water on the floor :confused: :confused: :confused:
how big is the kitchen :?: :?: :?: feet long by feet wide or m long by m wide :?: :?:

suspect as he has to possibly remove the kitchen units to get to the floor they may especialy if weakned at the bottom may need replacing
 
Thanks everyone! Didn't understand plywood was so different..... just to answer your questions big Al - the water WAS lying on the floor when i took the lino up - quite a big pool of it in fact which was very worrying! I moved in only a few weeks ago and there was no obvious water (strangely) - in fact my plumber who looked behind the washing machine thought the flooring was fine!
Apart from the obvious damaged board, I'm not sure where the old stains come from - I had assumed a previous flood? If plywood doesn't absorb water easily then I assume this might mean they are actually quite damaged. Yikes! :eek:
Any further ideas? Sorry to be a pain - I feel like a real idiot! :oops:
 
now what is confusing me is you have dammage to the floor and no apparent dammage to the kitchen units

can you see the main damaged area apart from discolouration can you see any other sighns of decay

again canyou have alook at the bottom of the kitchen units near where the leak was and a bit further afield
again how big is your kitchen[floor are]

i certainly havent got a solution to your problem but we may have half a chance of working out which carpinters reading of the situation is right

they can actualy both be right or 90%right one just underdoing it the other going the whole hog

only the person looking directly at the boards can tell if they are perminantly damaged
 
Bou said:
I had assumed a previous flood? If plywood doesn't absorb water easily then I assume this might mean they are actually quite damaged.
I has a flood couple of years ago in my kitchen for about 6 hrs and the joists was soaking wet, eventfully dried out over a few months. It take many years for timber to rot unless your air-brick vent are blocked.
Agreed with big-all & DAZB 1st post, I wouldn't worry too much unless your timber is very old. Do you know how old your property is?
A photo may help us or get a couple more quotes.
 
Bou said:
I had assumed a previous flood? If plywood doesn't absorb water easily then I assume this might mean they are actually quite damaged.
I has a flood couple of years ago in my kitchen for about 6 hrs and the joists was soaking wet, eventfully dried out over a few months. It take many years for timber to rot unless your air-brick vent are blocked.
Agreed with big-all & DAZB 1st post, I wouldn't worry too much unless your timber is very old. Do you know how old your property is?
A photo may help us or get a couple more quotes.
 
Bou said:
I had assumed a previous flood? If plywood doesn't absorb water easily then I assume this might mean they are actually quite damaged.
I has a flood couple of years ago in my kitchen for about 6 hrs and the joists was soaking wet, eventfully dried out over a few months. It take many years for timber to rot unless your air-brick vent are blocked.
Agreed with big-all & DAZB 1st post, I wouldn't worry too much unless your timber is very old. Do you know how old your property is?
A photo may help us or get a couple more quotes.
 
Well it was 4 o'clock in the morning :!: Must have bang my head on the keyboard :LOL:
 

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