How hard is it to install a door frame in a stud wall?

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I've built kitchens and am very handy at DIY. Happy to build a stud wall, but I imagine the door frame could be really hard to get perfect. A couple of mm out at the top and it'll look obvious.

Have you DIYers tackled this successfully or am I heading for trouble with this task?
 
Door linings come commonly as a kit with the housings already milled so you can't really go wrong, just buy that and then tack a bit of lath on the bottom to keep it sqaure.

Job done.
 
When planning the stud wall, set the gap for the door frame about 10mm wider than the door frame. When you come to put the door frame in, use some 5mm packers either side when putting the frame in, ensuring that the frame is plumb. Make sure the head of the frame is level.
Even if it's a few mm out of level, you wont really notice it. :wink: :wink:
 
Thanks ever so much guys, it's been very helpful reading your posts and I look forward to getting stuck into the job :-)
 
If you're concerned about getting the frame twisted, don't finally fix the lower end of the leg opposite the hinge side untill you've hung the door.
Just fix it temporarily until you're happy the door will close correctly.

As others have said, fix the header, ensuring it's level, fix the hinge side jamb, ensuring it's plumb, both ways. Fix the opposite jamb temporarily.

BTW, I'm no carpenter.
 
Good tip RH2 even if not a chippy. I would say don`t use an electric plane to shoot the door in - I did and it ran away with mm`s of wood :oops:
 
Ive just done this for first time on 5 doors and found the only tricky questions I needed to ask myself were; what height to fix the frame and what gap between the door and door stops did I need. For fixing the frame I did exactly as above. Ive read "never adjust the frame to the door", well, if the door doesnt quite fit, adjust the frame.

Make sure you know the finished floor height, which it sounds like you do, then to the door height add, up to 10mm clearance under the door, and 2mm to the top.

For the door stops I found a 1mm gap before painting works fine. Could even be less.

I also found using a router for the hinges ideal.
 
As Meadowhog says, allow a little clearance for painting. I always hang the doors , then when fitting the lock/ keep. allow the door to rattle ever so slightly when closed. That way, you know when it's painted, the rattle should be almost negligible. :wink: :wink:
 

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