how many bags of adhesive?

[snadge]

for 3 walls (3m x 2.4m) - how many bags of adhesive would i need for drywalling?

also, I want to PVA bond the walls before-hand to ensure a good hold for the adhesive - can anyone recommend what I should buy? - I saw some Unibond PVA in B&Q but was a huge tub for £16, is there a smaller , cheaper one I can get? a builder I worked for used to use a small 1 ltr bottle of something 5-1 mix just painted onto walls with wide brush to seal it.

thanks

 

[Richard C]

for 3 walls (3m x 2.4m) - how many bags of adhesive would i need for drywalling?

The recommended coverage is 2 boards per bag minimum (6 - 6.5 sq/m) but you can get more if the wall is level/even & you’re dabbing the boards tight. Minimum adhesive coverage required is 20% & use additional adhesive for support around the edges; use 12.5mm boards not 9.5mm & butt the boards close.

I want to PVA bond the walls before-hand to ensure a good hold for the adhesive

Applying PVA won’t necessarily give you a better bond, what’s the wall block, brick, plaster?

 

[snadge]

for 3 walls (3m x 2.4m) - how many bags of adhesive would i need for drywalling?

The recommended coverage is 2 boards per bag minimum (6 - 6.5 sq/m) but you can get more if the wall is level/even & you’re dabbing the boards tight. Minimum adhesive coverage required is 20% & use additional adhesive for support around the edges; use 12.5mm boards not 9.5mm & butt the boards close.

I want to PVA bond the walls before-hand to ensure a good hold for the adhesive

Applying PVA won’t necessarily give you a better bond, what’s the wall block, brick, plaster?

its mixed - part plaster finish artex, part tile adhesive, it was artexed kitchen with tiling that ive ripped off

 

[Richard C]

its mixed - part plaster finish artex, part tile adhesive, it was artexed kitchen with tiling that ive ripped off

Probably best to PVA it then; I use B&Q PVA a lot & I’ve never had any problems with it. Get the walls as flat as you can & make sure there are no high spots as this will govern how tight you can board the walls.

Don’t suppose I can convince you that opting for a Bonding plaster repair & finish re-skim will give you a far better finish can I?

 

[snadge]

its mixed - part plaster finish artex, part tile adhesive, it was artexed kitchen with tiling that ive ripped off

Probably best to PVA it then; I use B&Q PVA a lot & I’ve never had any problems with it. Get the walls as flat as you can & make sure there are no high spots as this will govern how tight you can board the walls.

Don’t suppose I can convince you that opting for a Bonding plaster repair & finish re-skim will give you a far better finish can I?

it would as we will be hanging kitchen units from the walls too but weve already got the boards - i suppose that one wall could be done with bonding by the plasterer and the rest I could use boards up on cos i think we were a couple of boards short anyway

we couldnt see any B&Q PVA, only unibond in a big tub ... probably right there in front of us...

thanks

 

[chappers]

if you are going to be hanging cupboards on your dabbed walls then a bit of forward thinking will pay dividends.Work out at what height your cupboard brackets will be and apply a solid bed of addy along this line

 

[joe-90]

That's a good tip.

 

[Richard C]

That's a good tip.

Absolutely

 

[snadge]

if you are going to be hanging cupboards on your dabbed walls then a bit of forward thinking will pay dividends.Work out at what height your cupboard brackets will be and apply a solid bed of addy along this line

yeah thanks for that one...

im doing that already for the stud wall we will be hanging stuff off - im about to finish the top of the wall but wondering if i need support noggins in there for the 1 unit thats gunna be hung from it?


cheers

 

[Richard C]

wondering if i need support noggins in there for the 1 unit thats gunna be hung from it?

Yes put them in.

 

[snadge]

thanks Richard - bit obvious but i like to be sure 100% sure...

now i just need the height measurements from her but IKEA kitchen design online where she has the outlay design stored isnt working

know anything about worktops? whats best method for to cut em for but-up joins (without strip) - will I be able to hire someone with the tools to do it or will they need to be taken in to a specialist (hope not)

thanks

 

[Richard C]

bit obvious but i like to be sure 100% sure

The other thing worth doing is to stick pieces of ply (min 12.5mm but thicker if you've got it) onto the back of the PB with grab adhesive where you’re going to fix accessories, hooks, TV or whatever to the wall, you can then screw straight into that rather than use those stupid plasterboard plugs.

know anything about worktops? whats best method for to cut em for but-up joins (without strip) - will I be able to hire someone with the tools to do it or will they need to be taken in to a specialist (hope not)

You’ll need a plunge router & a worktop mitre template for that & lots & lots of confidence if you haven’t done it before. You can hire someone in to mitre them for you on site as you say but when I last enquired about 4 years ago, I was quoted £70 per mitre but including clamps. I thought this was excessive & I needed 3 joints so I made other arrangements. Rates could vary I suppose depending on how much work they have & where you are.

 

[snadge]

we have 3 joins BUT they are ends of worktop apart from one - a cut and join needs to be made...

see my other thread on the subject with drawing

//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1759852


thanks