How often does an oil boiler need servicing?

[ericmark]

With my old gas boiler, installed around 1978, I had repairs done, new transformer, and flame sensor, but no service as such, until around 2010, when clearly some thing wrong, the heat exchanger was sooted up, and it needed a clean and pressures resetting, I clearly should have been getting it serviced, likely every 5 years to adjust the amount of gas being burnt as the jets wear, I would expect oil will wear jets faster than gas, and on moving in, I had all the jets replaced, filters cleaned or replaced, and once all done including some valve changed, the heating has run well, it was cheaper than gas, although that may have changed now, but there is a balance between not disturbing things, as faults seem to happen after some thing is disturbed, and ensuring the boiler is still running efficient, we did not get a service over Colvid, and we will get one now, but in general how often should an oil boiler be serviced?

 

[Johntheo5]

From my own oil boiler experience, I would think the oil nozzle rarely needs changing but they are such a cheap item that its probably best practice to change out at every service, I would consider actual boiler internals/turbulators (condensing boilers) etc far far more important. but how many services include this?.

 

[Exedon]

Really the only answer is ever 12 months .
So many variables what make-model is your boiler?

 

[Johntheo5]

Firebird Heatpac S90, SE boiler, installed May 2005.

 

[Burnerman]

Only personally speaking here, but in my opinion it can depend on how thorough the service is.
The baffles should be removed and cleaned, the flue ways swept and vacuumed and that includes the chimney if applicable.
A well set up apli9ance may well have more sulphur deposits than soot on the baffles!
The burner should be withdrawn and any combustion particles remaining vacuumed away, especially from the air door.
All dust should be blown away from the burner, motor bearings replaced if they are noisy and the coupling from motor to oil pump carefully inspected.
The blast tube should be blown clear and the nozzle replaced (around the £7 mark).
Tank and pump filters should be cleaned - especially any water trap at the tank.
The flexible pipe from supply to burner may need replacing - heaven help us if it leaks!
Check the seal between the burner flange and boiler, replace as necessary and that includes any burner to flange gasket.
The electrode gap should be checked and adjusted if necessary.
If it has a Danfoss pump, replace the solenoid coil with a 'Diamond' one.
After firing up, have the oil pressure and CO2 readings carefully checked and adjusted......if the pump can easily deliver more than its required pressure then it should be fine (they can pump to 150 psi no problem).
After all that then 2 years trouble free burning is perfectly reasonable.
John

 

[Johntheo5]

Maybe not yet a entry for the Guinness Records Book but my 17 year old boiler has never tripped on combustion failure, all parts are original, solenoid coil, PE cell, oil pump etc in a Riello G5X burner.
I remove the T3 head yearly and wipe down the electrodes, these have never need re gapping and remain at 4/4.5mm.

 

[Exedon]

I would add to very comprehensive list from
John above if its a condensing boiler clean trap and make sure waste is clear and in good condition.
We have already replaced a number of early condensing oil boilers that have rusted out through condensate leaks and blocked wastes.

 

[oilhead]

Whilst I would agree with John if it is a standard efficiency boiler, if High Efficiency, then an annual service is recommended as any deposits of soot or sulphur will be more critical on restricted flue passes.