How should I repair boards over these pipes?

[redhexagonal]

I just had a couple of radiators moved and pipework chased into the block a bit. A section of the dot and dabbed plasterboard has been removed. I’m not sure how to go about repairing this - I was thinking, wrap the pipes in something and then dot and dab over the whole area with as few pieces of plasterboard as I can manage. Not sure how to get the pipes thru the board.

In the 4th photo there is a section of concrete left where the skirting was, which is solid but moves a little bit. Should i hack it out of there before repairing or leave it?

How would you do it?

Thanks

 

[opps]

Having quickly looked at the photos, I would squirt expanding foam in to the gaps and then (simultaneously) insert some off cuts of plasterboard in the channels (again- using expanding foam to fix the plasterboard).

Then fill with your filler of choice.

Image number 4, drill a series of holes through the dot and dab plasterboard (just above the end of the board, squirt in the expanding foam. Again, it will lock things in place and prevent bounce.

BTW, whenever using expanding foam, spray the surfaces with water first. It both aids both adhesion and reduces curing time.

Excess foam can be cut away or dragged away with your fingernail/sandpaper.

 

[redhexagonal]

Having quickly looked at the photos, I would squirt expanding foam in to the gaps and then (simultaneously) insert some off cuts of plasterboard in the channels (again- using expanding foam to fix the plasterboard).

Then fill with your filler of choice.

Image number 4, drill a series of holes through the dot and dab plasterboard (just above the end of the board, squirt in the expanding foam. Again, it will lock things in place and prevent bounce.

BTW, whenever using expanding foam, spray the surfaces with water first. It both aids both adhesion and reduces curing time.

Excess foam can be cut away or dragged away with your fingernail/sandpaper.

So is it better to use foam than plasterboard adhesive in this case? Also , do I have to protect the pipes in any way or do I just foam around them?

 

[opps]

So is it better to use foam than plasterboard adhesive in this case? Also , do I have to protect the pipes in any way or do I just foam around them?

Use adhesive if you want. Just make sure that you wedge some up under the joining faces. Expanding foam and pipes (as fair as I know- the polyurethane will not damage them.

On reflection, it would probably be easier to use both simultaneously. It is easier to use dot and dab to set the vertical levels given that You just need a straight edge to tap it in to place. In some places though, it looks like the pipes are too proud to accept 9.5mm plaster board. In those channels, I would use expanding foam, and then undercut slightly so that it can be face filled.

 

[redhexagonal]

So in the shallowest bits you mean use foam cover the pipes cut it back and then fill the face with something - what would you recommend to fill the face of the foam?

 

[opps]

So in the shallowest bits you mean use foam cover the pipes cut it back and then fill the face with something - what would you recommend to fill the face of the foam?

Yeah, that was what I was trying to say.

I would use something like Toupret RedLite or RedDevil Easyfill. I would not recommend others such as EverBuild OneTime (they can be a pain to sand, but are cheaper)

Both are light weight fillers. They are both very easy to dent but they, or rather the areas to be filled, are unlikely to be subject to traffic/impact.

I like those class of fillers because the sanding dust generated doesn't cling to surfaces (or the inside of vacuum cleaner bags) . If you want something more impact resistant, look at powder based fillers such as Toupret Interior. It should be noted that they, the light weight fillers, are less "sticky" than powder based fillers. I often have to fill over the filler- nevertheless though, I still use the lightweight fillers when possible.

The lightweight fillers are more accommodating with regards to thermal expansion/contraction, but I don't want to over exaggerate the tolerances.

 

[foxhole]

Timber across base to accept plasterboard , timber as high as possible under rad and infill the hole area with a sheet of plasterboard cut around projecting pipes .
Base timber will allow easy skirting fix .
I would have ideally created a box skirting to bring the rad pipe straight up into inline rad valves would have looked neater .

 

[stevethespreader]

How would you do it?

I would take the rad back off cut the plasterboard in a straight line get a fresh piece of plasterboard cut 2 slots into it for the pipes then dab it on making sure you have a full bed of adhesive at the base

 

[Lower]

Make sure that you don't bury the pushfit connections in expanding foam or plasterboard adhesive. There needs to be space for the pushfit collars to move slightly to ensure they continue to seal.

 

[redhexagonal]

Make sure that you don't bury the pushfit connections in expanding foam or plasterboard adhesive. There needs to be space for the pushfit collars to move slightly to ensure they continue to seal.

Well that will be the only place in the house where theyre not buried

 

[Lower]

Well that will be the only place in the house where theyre not buried

Covered over by plasterboard is fine, but they shouldn't be solidly fixed in plasterboard adhesive or foam. You might get away with it, but it's one of the major causes of ongoing leaks in new houses according to one of the big house builders.

 

[redhexagonal]

Covered over by plasterboard is fine, but they shouldn't be solidly fixed in plasterboard adhesive or foam. You might get away with it, but it's one of the major causes of ongoing leaks in new houses according to one of the big house builders.

One more thing my house builders did wrong…