How to deal with this...

[barki]

Hi

First, the picture;

When I installed the shower tray, I replaced that section of floorboard with 18mm ply, levelled it with packers and laid it on a solid bed of bonding plaster. To be level, it needed the left hand side raising about 6-7mm as you can see by the gap in the photo.

I now need to tile the floor, and it would be great it I could do this completely level. There is about 2.5m behind the camera, although the floor does level itself out further from the tray. What's the best method of levelling the left hand side of the room before tiling?

The floorboard is 18mm T&G chipboard and would be a major PITA to lift and plane the joists, I'd much prefer another option.

I'll be laying 10mm ceramic tiles (600x600's) on a 10mm thermal tile backer board.


Could I use a flexible floor levelling compound, then board onto that and then tile?

I'd consider using the adhesive to level it out, but I'm thinking 6/7mm at its deepest would not be ideal.


Any opinions greatly appreciated ....be gentle....

 

[barki]

P.S ignore the stuff on the tray - its just dead weight to hold it down while the sealant around the base of the wall panels dries.

Also, I won't be using that tubbed adhesive, it's leftover from a previous job. The powered stuff under the hoover is for this floor

Tom

 

[gregers]

is the chipboard glued?or have you just screwed it down?
if it was mine i would take it up and pack the tops of the joists with dpm.
(so no need to plane the joists down)
that way i wouldnt need to mess around with any self leveler.

 

[tpt]

i agree with gregers, but i'd chuck the chip away and use 25mm ply, then you'd only have a little to build up.

Alternatively use 18mm ply over that chipboard instead of the backerboard.

 

[ree]

Why has the floor dropped on the left hand side?

Maybe its me, but i cant see the screw heads to the other joists, and screws seem shy at the edges?

The matching screws at any join should be matched at 100mm centres, and the field screws set at 150mm centres. Use a drill as a powered screwdriver to set and remove screws.

Perhaps, as above, lift the panel of board and pack up the joists to give you a level floor from left to right and front to rear. The floor must be completely level for tiling.

The backer board must be "glued" down with powdered adhesive, and screwed as above - fill the gap at the shower tray apron with adhesive or whatever is handy. The backer boards must also be laid flat and level.

Note: before anything - two people should stand in the shower tray and test for creaking or movement, Then pour water into the tray and note that it all drains off.

If this is a shower compartment only then OK but if its a bathroom then raising the FFL could cause difficulties.

 

[barki]

Cheers for the responses - the screwheads you can see are whwre I raised a section on the t&g (glued tounge) boards to replace
With 18mm ply under the shower tray and the bit on the right was a small peice I took up just to move a radiator pipe into the wall so I could have angled valves on it. The rest of the floor remains nailed down and seriously its a real time consuner to get it up, largely due to getting the old nails out!

It is a bathroom with sink & toilet out of shot behind the camera.

Any way that I could level from above would be preferable for me, but i'll go below if iI absolutely must!