How to Dot n Dab

[macadonald]

Hi Guys,

As explained in a previous post, I have stripped all the plaster off of a number of walls in the house. This is right down to the brickwork, which being a 1930's house is rather rough, i.e. not a smooth block like surface.

I plan to attach plasterboard to the walls using dot+dab, but have heard conflicting advise on how to apply the board adhesive. Some advise (including all of the youtube videos I've seen) show the adhesive being applied very sparsely. Around the edges and and a few areas in the middle.

Other advise suggests applying the adhesive to the back of the board rather than to the brickwork, but close enough blobs so that when it's pushed to the walls, the adhesive will join together making a continuous bonding surface.

The latter will obviously require a lot more adhesive. The other advantage I can think of the second method is that the board would not feel hollow like drywall.

Any advise?

 

[roughcaster]

Dot and dab,,,, yuk!! Batten and board it, or have it replastered onto the brick.

 

[simonjay]

Hi Guys,

As explained in a previous post, I have stripped all the plaster off of a number of walls in the house. This is right down to the brickwork, which being a 1930's house is rather rough, i.e. not a smooth block like surface.

I plan to attach plasterboard to the walls using dot+dab, but have heard conflicting advise on how to apply the board adhesive. Some advise (including all of the youtube videos I've seen) show the adhesive being applied very sparsely. Around the edges and and a few areas in the middle.

Other advise suggests applying the adhesive to the back of the board rather than to the brickwork, but close enough blobs so that when it's pushed to the walls, the adhesive will join together making a continuous bonding surface.

The latter will obviously require a lot more adhesive. The other advantage I can think of the second method is that the board would not feel hollow like drywall.

Any advise?

A continuous bonding surface ? No builder would do that !
Blobs around the edge, about every foot in a square grid over the wall, blobs where you might want to fix items.
Chuck the blobs off the end of a trowel.
Then offer up the board and push it against the blobs with a long spirit level to ensure its not bowed.
Thats what they do for speed on DIY SOS etc.
Put a few mechanical fixings in near the top just to be safe and ensure board won't fall off in case of fire etc.

BUT, if solid ouside walls that could be damp or cold, dabs can show though as cold spots attracting condensation etc.

Its not that hard to do a scratch coat of bonding plaster or render if you put up guides and scrape it flat. Then get a plasterer to skim over the bonding.

Simon.

 

[macadonald]

Thanks Guys,

I'm getting the feeling that there is proper way to do this and a quick and easy way to do this. scratch coat and skim being the proper way.

I have just 2 coat rendered an outside garden wall and found the scratch coat to be quite dificult.

I agree that if I get proper guides on the wall, it will be much easier. Can anyone advise the best way to attach and plan to attach guides? I used battons of 10mm wood outside, but found that the fact that they bowed and bent meant the ruling was not straight. Is it best to attach outer guides that are level, then to use string to set the inner guides?

What is a good guide and ruler to use?

Sorry for all the questions.

Kyle

 

[plstering]

you in london m8 if you need a hand then i mite beable to help you out m8
have a think about gypframe speedy line for a plasterers to d&d out yur job wont take long at all drop me a line dude 07536957847

 

[^woody^]

Use a foam adhesive such as Insta-Stick or Siroflex SX.

Much easier, less mess/hassle and quicker

 

[garyo]

Is there much of a thermal difference between dot-n-dab and properly plastered solution?

Gary