How to fix tv bracket on dot and dab wall

14 Sep 2010
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United Kingdom
hi, not sure if this is the right forum for this but will try.

I need to put my tv up on the wall which has been dot and dabbed

Obviously you get wall plugs for plasterboard and you get wall plugs for brick. But I have a combination of them both!

I used to have it on the chimney and used rawl bolt fixings.

Any suggestions please

oh its a 46" LCD so quite weighty
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It's just an observation, but Rawl bolts are better suited to concrete walls and ceilings. When they're used in brick there's no real guarantee that you'll hit something solid - could be mortar - or that the bolt won't be close to the edge of a brick so it fractures when expanding as it is tightened.

For dot n dab you need something that will anchor in to the solid wall behind and provide a stand-off to take the weight/pressure away from the plasterboard surface. There's a couple of products that fit the bill:

If you know that the wall behind is sound then go with Rigifix wall anchors. These are a three part design. The first bit is a conventional style wall plug. The second part is a metal screw with a drilled and tapped centre. This bit screws only so far in to the real wall. The remainder is left exposed to bridge the gap between the wall and the plasterboard surface. The final bit is the screws used to fix the bracket. What you end up with is like oil rig legs rising from the solid wall. You level them off and then fix the bracket.

The other option suits crumbly walls better. It's chemical resin and threaded rod studs. I use these quite often. They work well. Screwfix does economy quick setting resin and I cut my own studs from M8 bar.

Either method will work.
So with the resin and threaded rod method. You drill the hole for the rod. Apply the resin to the thread that will sit in the hole? Allow to dry and set aNd then attach the bracket and fasten nuts?
Yep, that's pretty much it. I use nylock nuts for the back fixings so they stays in place when the final surface nuts are tightened. Here is the text from a reply I did a few years ago on the same topic.


1) buy some metal studs or make them by cutting down threaded rod and adding nuts and washers. 6mm or 8mm diameter rod will be fine for hanging a plasma screen as long as the wall is sound and you fix with 6 points.

2) buy a suitable drill bit approx 4mm bigger than the diameter of the studs being used. i.e. 6mm stud = 10mm drill bit

3) offer up bracket and mark the fixing points (normal caveats apply about ensuring you watch out for pipes and cables, and that you have a sound wall to fix to.

4) drill holes to the depth of the stud's length. Know the depth of the wall you are fixing to. Don't drill deeper than the thickness of the brick or block. If necessary cut down the length of the studs to suit. Allow for 10-15mm of the stud to be proud of the hole - this is what you'll fix to.

5) clean debris from holes - use vac attachment

6) check alignment of holes with bracket

7) set up your resin anchor in a mastic gun and ensure you have the studs to hand. Get a cloth for cleaning excess resin. You can use masking tape to protect the wall finish and also use it to make a support sling if you find the studs drooping after being inserted

8.) read the setting time in the instructions for your resin compound. Take note of the room temperature

9) working one hole at a time - part fill a hole with some resin, then take a stud and insert it with a clockwise screwing motion. Set the depth so that enough stud is left exposed. Clean off any excess being careful not to get it on the thread of the rod. Dried resin will be difficult to remove.

10) Clean your hands before moving on to the next hole, and repeat the process

Notes - avoid the temptation to fiddle with the studs as they are setting.
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I think rigifix is much easier. How do you get resin into the hole if there is a cavity between plasterboard and brick?
The resin cartridge has a long nozzel. The cartridge fits in a mastic gun. Use Rigifix if you're sure that'll work for you.
Screwfix do a number of resins. Polyester, vinylester, styrene free etc.

Can you recommend one? Never used this stuff before but online reviews are singing its praises so maybe am missing a trick here
If you can ventilate the area well then the lowest cost option is the no-nonsense polyester resin. If not, then go for the vinyl ester odourless version. Beware though, it is very fast setting!! Perfect for quick fill jobs but it will set in the applicator tube after a couple of minutes.

I'll be using this product on Monday to fix a crumbling wall behind a cistern.
I've just ordered a packet of these: for just that job. Not arrived yet though so can't really comment but they look good (and are priced to match)

I have used Dryline Pro for fixing a number of things to Dot and Dab walls including a couple of BIG TV's, Radiators and heavy mirrors and pictures.
Wouldn't use anything else now.

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