Wall mounting a TV on dot and dab

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Hi all.
This has been coveted in similar ways a number of times.

My other half lives in a flat that has dot and dab plaster board walls.

Some time ago I decided to use reclaimed pallet wood to make a feature wall.

The wood is secure with nails on 5 1.5" x 2.5" buttons running vertically.

When I started the project I didn't know what dot and dab was let alone the way the walls where.
It's been on around 5 years.

We now have 2 toddlers that have already damaged 1 TV at my place, they use the tv stand as a table to play on while trying to be a part of the tv show (they get up close). We have bought a new TV for her so looking at wall mounting.

What is the beat approach without cutting through the wood wall? - I can remove individual planks relatively easily.

My worry is the weight on the plasterboard.

My plan was to mount some plywood to the front of the wood and mount the tv to that. The idea would be to drill some coach bolts into the wall behind the plasterboard, use pieces of 1.5" x 2.5" buttons ad stand off mounts then buy some extra long coach bolts to go into that.

I've read about about rigifix and dryline pro on other threads, so could use them?

Any thoughts?
 

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Just mount the TV to the wood, compared to the weight of the wood fixed to the wall the TV weight will be insignaficent. I am assuming that it is just a flat/slight!y angled TV mount.
 
That's probably true. Lol.
I just didn't want the tv to the bale that broke the horses back.
I haven't got to buying the tv mount as yet as I wanted to work out how to attach one lol.

I was hoping for a swivel and tilt mount (not the extend out types).

If I am limited then it will have to be a tilt only lol
 
How are the pallet wood support battens fixed to the wall?
If you are cautious you could fix the mount to the wall with long fixings straight through the cladding,
ie.
 
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If there is a solid wall behind the dot and dab try corefix screws and plugs, just carefully drill a small hole and stick a piece of wire through for depth, and check for the presence of cables first.

Blup
 
Hi all.
thanks for the responses.

The gap between the breeze blocks and plaster board is small - 27mm from wall to surface of plaster board.

Apparently the wall mount comes with lag bolts and plugs lag M8x65mm

IMG-20230512-WA0013.jpg


Corefix seems to be the reccomended. What is the difference between Corefix 120 and Corefix 100?

Also, assuming I only need 4, is it just worth buying 24 (do they have other uses, handy to have around) or will they just be an expensive waste?
 
Corefix, its the length of the fitting

 
Hi all done and securely mounted. Thanks!
So a few lessons:
1. The 10mm x 95mm mentioned on screwfix website is for the wall plug. Duh!
2. Breeze blocks are only about 100mm. So the 120mm will pop out the other side unless you have a 30mm thick item you are mounting.
3. The screws the corefix screws are a bit crap. I managed to snap one whilst loosening.
4. Use a 9mm bit, push the plug in until there is an inch left by hand. Tap the plug in with a hammer, if it looks like its about to kink, add the metal sleeve in and hammer through.

On a side note, will it hold the 100kg stated? Maybe if it was across 4 or more screws not on an individual one.

P.s. lucky screwfix only had a pack of 24, I ended up mounting it, then deciding it was all too high so remounted 35cm lower. In all I used corefix units.
 
The block may be 100mm, but there will be plaster on top of that, plus your battens, plus the pallet cladding.
 
The block may be 100mm, but there will be plaster on top of that, plus your battens, plus the pallet cladding.
Oh I went strait from the plaster board.
I cut a gap in the cladding, and fixed the mount between buttons.

I think there was around 20 to 25mm from breeze block to surface of the wall.

I could swear I felt the drill suddenly being free at the other end lol.
 

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