How to lift/replace tight fitted secret nailed floor boards?

[ABN]

About 5 years ago I replaced my upstairs floor with tongue and grooved country pine floor boards (22mm thick). I clamped them firmly together, secret nailed and then waxed with Osmo hard wax oil. All the joints were perfect as they still are today.

Seem that I may have a central heating leak, have tried leak sealer but the jury is still out on whether it has fixed the problem and for how long. So trying to prepare myself for the eventuality that I may have to lift a few boards.

So how best to lift and then replace tight fitting secret nailed boards?

 

[HERTS P&D]

I come across this many times, where a customer has a tiled bathroom floor. This is easy, you only know there is a leak due to it leaking through the ceiling? So what I do is mark out a 300mm x 300mm section on the ceiling, then cut out that section. From there you can make the hole bigger to suit the situation. After the pipe is fixed, then all you do is cut back to the next joist and re-plaster board and plaster.

Happy Days.

Andy

 

[ABN]

Had wondered about doing that way.

Leak had been going on for a while but not enough to mark the ceiling. Can lift the first 2 boards as they are secret screwed, couldn't get the nailer to work that close to the wall. Then try to estimate where to open up the ceiling.

Plastering is not my cup of tea but were needs must I supose.

Thanks.

 

[big-all]

if there's no marks how do you know its leaking??

plastic and metal pipes can click with expansion and contraction when the hot is run for the first time or in the cooling cycle

 

[ABN]

Because the pressure was dropping on average 0.5bar a day.

When I added the leaker fixer calculated that I has lost about 10ltr over a couple of months. No visible leaks so only leaves the pipes under the floor. I'm surprised that amount of leak hasn't marked the ceiling, assmumed that the rate of evaperation exceeded that require to penetrate the paster board.

Leak fixer seems to be working ATM but don't know for how long which is why I'm trying to mentaly prepare myself for what could be a big job (for me a least .

 

[big-all]

just make sure the noise/dripping sound is happening at times the heating is off and the pipes are cold to rule out the possibility off the wrong location

 

[ABN]

The only evidence of a leak is the drop in pressure. There is no noticable knocking/driping sounds.

The original leak thread can be found here
//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=261833