How to make cavity spacing around existing downlight install

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With have a bathroom fitter renovating our bathroom. He's going to replace our downlights. I'm currently looking at the JCC FGLED10 and the Aurora M10.

My fitter has recommended Aurora, as he uses those all the time. However it has 40degree angle and 450lumens brightness. It comes with a 10 year guarantee.

Where as the JCC has a 60degree angle and 750lumens brightness. It comes with a 5 year guarantee.

There will be ceiling insulation above, to protect the above room from noise and fire. The JCC requires a 150mm cavity space below the insulation, my understanding is the Aurora m10 does not - you just fit a little red cover:
http://tinyurl.com/p9y4dhp

My fitter is concerned about how to put in a cover (to give cavity space) for JCC, I cannot find anything that will go into a small whole and open up to give the space. Where as the Aurora has a small hat fitted.

My fitter suggested stick with the Aurora, as the lumens and wideness is just the lamps - which I can always replace. Putting a 60degree angle with 750lumens in the Aurora, if I'm unhappy with the lighting. He thinks that personally Aurora are a better brand - he pointed out that many retailers stopped selling JCC (because they are crap, as he put it), so you cannot buy in local shops, only online.

So I have four Qs.

1) Is there much of a difference in equality between Aurora and JCC brands? Pricing is about the same.

2) Is there a way to put some sort of insulation support frame through an existing whole. A triangle shaped thing that will open up wider around the whole, once pushed through.

3) Is he right that if I'm unhappy with the 40degree angle, all I have to do is change the bulbs?

4) Why is it that most lamps, especially with the big names, are 40degrees and not 60degrees? I noticed this for my office fitting (not downlights), I had to use a less well advertised brand to get 60degrees.

Mark
 
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40 degrees is fairly typical, however it's somewhat of a false measurement of light output. That measurement is at what point the light output has reached 50% of its peak (centre) output. What it doesn't tell you is at what point does it reach 25% or 0%

Both of those fittings are fixed LED lamps, so you cannot change the lamps in them.

I personally prefer Aurora over JCC, but there is very little in it, and entirely personal preference.

Don't forget, it's only a bathroom, you don't want it to be TOO bright.
 
40 degrees is fairly typical, however it's somewhat of a false measurement of light output. That measurement is at what point the light output has reached 50% of its peak (centre) output. What it doesn't tell you is at what point does it reach 25% or 0%

Both of those fittings are fixed LED lamps, so you cannot change the lamps in them.

I personally prefer Aurora over JCC, but there is very little in it, and entirely personal preference.

Don't forget, it's only a bathroom, you don't want it to be TOO bright.
It's not just the brightness, but also the shadows. I fitted 40degree in my office and noticed a lot more shadows. I changed to 60degree and the shadows where better.

But I think the clincher is going to be the needed cavity spacing. There seems no way to retrofit that for the JCC - can't get a cap up there, no "pop-open" cavity support. Where as the Aurora M10 has a little red cap, that you can by that attaches to the fitting.
 
If you are concerned about shadows why use spot lights at all. One centrally fitted "normal" light would solve all your problems.
 
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There will be ceiling insulation above, to protect the above room from .. fire.
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If you are concerned about shadows why use spot lights at all. One centrally fitted "normal" light would solve all your problems.
I'm not sure I understand that. Whilst not wanting to advocate downlights (far from all of which can reasonably be classified as 'spotlights'), the minimisation of shadows is surely going to be served by having multiple 'spread out' lights (of any sort), rather than a single central one (which maximises shadowing)?

Kind Regards, John
 

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