How to make cladding?

[ellal]

I have some lengths of (cough) dried out 4"x1" and want to use them as the cladding on a treehouse..

A quick plane has given a nice finish, but I'd like to know the best shaped join to router, to give the best weatherproofing..

cheers

 

[big-all]

assuming your mounting them horizontaly you either have to interlock them [t&g]or overlap them in either case the wood underneath needs to shed the water from the plank above
just make shure you have no flat edges only slopes on the top of the individual planks and no level joins or slots to trap the water

 

[ellal]

I was thinking about the 'water trap' on T&G, given that expansion/contraction will inevitably happen..

But a traditional shiplap looks a bit tricky for my routing skills/tools..

So would a simple square 'cut out' of half the thickness of the board do with it overlapping the next one down (with an expansion gap)...?

 

[big-all]

all you actualy do is is make a 45 degree chamfer in front of the tounge so the water has no where to sit

the other way is router out a rebate half the thickness by 10mm deep

then with a plane chamfer the front edge over 1 or 2 inches untill the top edge is around 1 or 2mm less so when its inserted up 8mm its a close fit because of the taper

 

[ellal]

thanks big-all...

I think I have it visualised, but do you have a link to a cross-sectional image?

 

[JohnD]

I'm with B-A on the flat top edges.

I did some post-and-rail fencing, 75x35mm, water-repellent stain. the flat top edge allows water to lie on it, and it penetrates the slightest blemish. I found it got in through knots and rotted from the inside.

I bet you could rout a slope on the top edge tro throw off the water.

those water-repellent fence stains are quite good if you treat before final assembly you can protect the edges.

 

[ellal]

those water-repellent fence stains are quite good if you treat before final assembly you can protect the edges.

any suggestions as to a good make?

(bearing in mind I'm looking for colours for kids..)

 

[JohnD]

Cuprinol and Ronson have a good range of colours and I expect are good quality. Have a look round to see if you can get BOGOF or something. Homebase i think are having a 10% off this weekend. Some brands are only suitable for rough-sawn wood and do not stick to planed until it is weathered, so check the label.

You can also get Cuprinol Shed and Fence preserver which is a spriit based anti-rot thing (not a water-repellent stain, which you can apply after it has dried). might be worth using on the floor supports, for safety. you have to shake or stir it as the colour settles.

Personally I just buy cheap brown own-brand stain at the shed. it's very easy to re-apply every few years.

 

[big-all]

thanks big-all...

I think I have it visualised, but do you have a link to a cross-sectional image?

not realy i assume your wood is around 22mm
but if you imagine you have a 50mm long taperd section and your removing just over half the thickness [12mm] thats aq 4 to one ratio or around 22percent of 90 so around 20 degree angle

i would also sand the ridge off as your unlikly to get them even and parralel on the boards doing it freehand

 

[ellal]

Thanks for the help guys..

Will now be taking advantage of the weather and getting this built before I expected to!!