I’m installing a concealed shower valve with an in-wall brass box. It has four connections: hot and cold inlets, and two outlets (for example a fixed head and a hand shower).
Before I board and tile the wall, both outlet pipes will be connected and capped at the drop-ear wall plates (½” female). The valve body itself has a factory temporary cover fitted, so I understand I can turn the water supply on and safely pressure-test the hot and cold inlets for leaks.
My question is about the two outlet pipe runs. Since the actual thermostatic mixer and controls are fitted after tiling, water won’t flow through the outlets at this stage. So how can I properly test those two outlet runs for leaks before everything is buried in the wall?
One option would be to fully install the thermostatic valve and controls just to run water through the outlets, but I’d really like to avoid fitting and removing the finished parts before tiling.
I’ve read that it may be possible to pressure-test the outlet runs using air from the drop-ear wall plates. I have a car cooling-system pressure tester with a hand pump and quick-release fitting, but I’m not sure if this is suitable or what BSP adapter would be needed.
I’d really appreciate advice on the best and safest way to test the outlet pipework so I can be confident all the joints are sound before boarding up.
Before I board and tile the wall, both outlet pipes will be connected and capped at the drop-ear wall plates (½” female). The valve body itself has a factory temporary cover fitted, so I understand I can turn the water supply on and safely pressure-test the hot and cold inlets for leaks.
My question is about the two outlet pipe runs. Since the actual thermostatic mixer and controls are fitted after tiling, water won’t flow through the outlets at this stage. So how can I properly test those two outlet runs for leaks before everything is buried in the wall?
One option would be to fully install the thermostatic valve and controls just to run water through the outlets, but I’d really like to avoid fitting and removing the finished parts before tiling.
I’ve read that it may be possible to pressure-test the outlet runs using air from the drop-ear wall plates. I have a car cooling-system pressure tester with a hand pump and quick-release fitting, but I’m not sure if this is suitable or what BSP adapter would be needed.
I’d really appreciate advice on the best and safest way to test the outlet pipework so I can be confident all the joints are sound before boarding up.
