How to use a crimp tool - uninsulated crimps

[CountryFan]

So I bought this crimp tool so I can connect Bonding back up correctly. Am I correct in thinking that the largest one is for 8-10mm?

Thanks

 

[Bear2Biker]

Read the MIL (Manufacturers Instruction Leaflet) AND look at the pictures, there is your answer.

 

[ericmark]

Working for GEC large steam turbines, our crimp pliers had to be calibrated, not seen it done with any other firm, but also the crimp had to be from one company, so in the main we do a test with over centre crimp pliers to see what jaw is required.

Lidi best look good, but as to selecting which jaw once the supplied crimps run out, it is really trail and error. But even with this cheap set, the jaws are marked.

 

[JohnW2]

So I bought this crimp tool so I can connect Bonding back up correctly. Am I correct in thinking that the largest one is for 8-10mm?

You can presumably read the markings as well as I can, so the answer must be 'yes'. The nature of the figures marked is such that they are obviously mm², not AWG.

 

[CountryFan]

Read the MIL (Manufacturers Instruction Leaflet) AND look at the pictures, there is your answer.

It didnt come with one. The pictures and tool is why i am asking - the marking above the largest crimp reads 4-6

 

[CountryFan]

You can presumably read the markings as well as I can, so the answer must be 'yes'. The nature of the figures marked is such that they are obviously mm², not AWG.
View attachment 416317

Thanks John. Was just making sure as the figures above that gap state 4-6.

 

[pete01]

Yes, try it if you can't pull the lug off its as good as its gonna get

 

[JohnW2]

Thanks John. Was just makibg sure as the figures above that gap state 4-6.

Those 'jaws' look very odd. There are four marked sizes (0.5-1, 1.5-2.5, 4-6 & 8-10) but only the first three have obvious 'gaps', leaving one (at least, me - and probably you!) wondering what one is meant to use for the 'top' size range (8-10 mm²)

I can't find any actual 'instructions', but he Heschen blurb about this too says:

Precise crimping die sets and integral lock with self releasing mechanism ensure high-quality crimping effect after crimping repeatedly

I wonder if the plural reference to "crimping die sets" may possibly mean that some changing of interchangeable die sets may be required?

 

[CountryFan]

Those 'jaws' look very odd. There are four marked sizes (0.5-1, 1.5-2.5, 4-6 & 8-10) but only the first three have obvious 'gaps', leaving one (at least, me - and probably you!) wondering what one is meant to use for the 'top' size range (8-10 mm²)

Yes, i thought that too. Not very clear imo.

I can't find any actual 'instructions', but he Heschen blurb about this too says:

I wonder if the plural reference to "crimping die sets" may possibly mean that some changing of interchangeable die sets may be required?

Who knows. Thats why i asked on here. Tbh, I wss with 2 minds as to send them back, but since they will do for what i want, i'll keep them. I have emailed the company, will let you know if/what they answer

 

[CountryFan]

Yes, try it if you can't pull the lug off its as good as its gonna get

Yep, tried that and seemed good. I just worry a bit. I asked the Spark to who i sent to verify if a cross/link bond was required. He said its better than he would have done!

 

[crystal ball]

Working for GEC large steam turbines, our crimp pliers had to be calibrated, not seen it done with any other firm, but also the crimp had to be from one company, so in the main we do a test with over centre crimp pliers to see what jaw is required.

View attachment 416316
Lidi best look good, but as to selecting which jaw once the supplied crimps run out, it is really trail and error. But even with this cheap set, the jaws are marked.

I worked for Vickers Armstrong in the 70s, crimping tools were calibrated then as were torque wrenches

 

[JohnW2]

Yes, i thought that too. Not very clear imo.

Yes, pretty odd in comarison with what I'mused to seeing. This pic perhaps gives a sligttly clearer idea of what is going on - and it looks as if it's the 4-6mm² one (ratherthan the 8-10mm² one) which is 'the odd man out'! ...

 

[flameport]

4 holes, the markings are not all in the same location relative to the holes.

It's a rather nasty piece anyway, and good luck crimping 10mm² with that and not incurring some kind of hand injury.

This: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Solsop-Hydraulic-Crimping-Pliers-Aluminium/dp/B0BMF6YYHT?th=1 and it's many similar variations
is a far better option, used with lugs like these: https://www.screwfix.com/p/essentials-non-insulated-metallic-6mm-ring-copper-tube-lugs-10-pack/33041

 

[ericmark]

My large crimp pliers are of this design

and one would need to be Charles Atlas to do 120 mm, and 10 mm, so easy not to be square on, in real terms 16 - 90 mm.

The Lidi ones never really used.

 

[CountryFan]

4 holes, the markings are not all in the same location relative to the holes.

View attachment 416344It's a rather nasty piece anyway, and good luck crimping 10mm² with that and not incurring some kind of hand injury.

It wasn’t too bad tbh, once I’d initially figured it out and got the crimp to stay put. They feel decent, but I value your input and it was actually your video that inspired me to get some so I think I’ll send the money back.

There’s actually another section - above the 8-10 bit which clearly isn’t for 10mm!