How would you plumb this rad?

[Screech20]

Hey guys,

Just hung my rad and put tails down to mark the floorboards but a joist is in the way.

I would rather have them coming up straight rather than dog leg them... What would you do?

Cheers

 

[easyflow]

Notch the joist enough for an elbow to sit in it.

 

[leakydave]

Yep... Notch the joist enough for an elbow to sit in it.

 

[HERTS P&D]

What about going horizontal into the wall then down?

Andy

 

[vulcancontinental]

1 1/4" flatbit down then chisel out, no clicks then when heating up or cooling.

Looks like Danfoss's Mustang valves being used, classy.

 

[Screech20]

Like this then maybe?

What about going horizontal into the wall then down?

Andy

There wouldn't have been room for that I don't think.

Looks like Danfoss's Mustang valves being used, classy.

It is danfeoss trv and lock shield... Do I sense sarcasm or are they ok?


Cheers

 

[TCCHeating]

Good job well done there mate.

With regards to the ls valve. Set it and then never try to turn it again in the future and it should be fine

 

[Screech20]

Thanks! Tbh I was expecting a 'no wtf are you doing, not like that'. Just hope the joints are good

Are they that bad? I've got it as that's what went in on the other rooms 2 years ago, I admit I've not touched them since, and now don't want to lol.
I'm sure I used them through recommendation but not sure now.

Cheers

 

[TCCHeating]

The danfoss trvs are good but the lockshields are carp

 

[vulcancontinental]

Keep the board lose around it, the carpet will hide the hole. Danfoss are fine, not being sarky. The old LS valves always leaked but there was a washer on the underside of the cap to seal it.

 

[Screech20]

Ok I'll an eye on them then, thanks.

Knew I'd do something wrong! Just noticed the LS wasn't pushed right over to the radiator as if it was fully tightened, so now the tales ****ed!

 

[FiremanT]

It doesn't need to be pushed right over. As long as the olive is secure on the shank, it can be in any position. If you have already pushed it over and tightened it, use a pair of grips or a hacksaw to remove and fit a new one. Or enlarge the wood cut out

 

[Screech20]

Sorry to bring this backup again but don't think it's worth another thread.

Are the clips I've used going to be ok for the copper heating runs?
One of my other rads makes clicking noises when it's warming up and after some searching on here I see it's down to being against the wood and also the choice of clips..?

Cheers

 

[roguetrader]

Put a bit of hair felt wrap/tube between the pipe and the timber. It will stop the pipework ticking.

 

[Screech20]

I'm now doing it to get no pipe to timber contact, hence the notching on this room, it's just the clips I'm wondering about.
Once this room is done I shall explore the noises in our room.

Cheers