Hyundai i20 rear pads removal - sorted

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2009 reg 1.4 petrol

Haven't looked at them yet but if they have to be replaced, I assume being foot and handbrake, the caliper piston will have to screwed back like a VW Bora ?
 
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Even some of the smaller Kia / Hyundai cars have a disc / drum system on the back.....if yours has this, the pistons just push back but if it's disc only then they have to be rotated as normal.
John :)
 
Many thanks Burnerman.

It is indeed a disc / drum system. With caliper removed, I simply opened the bleed nipple and pushed the piston back.

Got Mintex pads and fluid from a local factor.

With the handbrake being shoes, hopefully they'll last the life time of the car since they only make static contact - unless of course they seize on.
 
Nice one Mr. Spanner :cool:
The handbrake shoes rarely give problems as they are well hidden, but I have found that its good to have them adjusted on the tight side for the MOT.
John :)
 
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With the handbrake being shoes, hopefully they'll last the life time of the car since they only make static contact - unless of course they seize on.

My logic exactly when I had an apparently similar system on a Peugeot 406.

The logic was flawed when I discovered common problem with these type of brakes is the linings become detached from shoes. possibly due to the adhesive degrading over number of years, but that needs an experts to confirm it.
 
Still common with bonded shoes Alan.....a small amount of moisture gets between the lining and the shoe, rusts, expands and forces the lining to detach.
John :)
 
One problem with fitting new brake pads is that once you've coated the metal back/edges with copaslip, it makes the pad difficult to handle when fitting it in to the anchor plate.

Anyone got a handy trick for this?
 
My apologies for the posting about copaslip.

Its just occurred to me -

apply copaslip to the lugs of the metal back then when the pad is in the anchor plate, apply copaslip to the metal back and then fit the shims, coated with copaslip.
 
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