I little advice on switching to Hive thermostat.

[Westindiman]

I have moved house and taken my Hive kit with me. This picture is the current Honeywell controls with common and switched live

.

But my Hive needs a neutral wire.

Can I add a wire to the neutral in this picture from the boiler connectors here to my Hive while keeping the two wires from 24v and OV to my Hive ?

 

[ericmark]

It seems there are many Hive set-ups. Clearly, since you have brought it from the old house, it's a case of using what you have. I look at this and see so many options as to how to connect. I think the use of the same backplate for volt free, and non volt free versions is asking for problems, there is little reason with the volt free version for not using an independent supply, the Nest does this with a USB supply to its thermostat, fact that the power supply is not built into the thermostat is beside the point.

I would not use an independent supply, as my central heating boiler is battery backed, with an UPS supply, so want the same with the thermostats.

So I have a hub, uses the universal backplate as shown, which wirelessly connects to my wall thermostat, in my case Drayton Wiser, and the hub is right by the boiler, so uses the boiler's supply. If my boiler had the OpenTherm option which yours it seems has, then the extra low voltage wires would connect to

the OpenTherm option on Hive. Or in my case Wiser

If the option is there why not use it. But the older Hive did not have the option, so until we know what you have, all seems rather pointless. Please quote or reference my name when you answer like this @Westindiman so it will alert me that you have answered.

 

[Westindiman]

It seems there are many Hive set-ups. Clearly, since you have brought it from the old house, it's a case of using what you have. I look at this View attachment 405808and see so many options as to how to connect. I think the use of the same backplate for volt free, and non volt free versions is asking for problems, there is little reason with the volt free version for not using an independent supply, the Nest does this with a USB supply to its thermostat, fact that the power supply is not built into the thermostat is beside the point.

I would not use an independent supply, as my central heating boiler is battery backed, with an UPS supply, so want the same with the thermostats.

So I have a hub, uses the universal backplate as shown, which wirelessly connects to my wall thermostat, in my case Drayton Wiser, and the hub is right by the boiler, so uses the boiler's supply. If my boiler had the OpenTherm option which yours it seems has, then the extra low voltage wires would connect to View attachment 405809 the OpenTherm option on Hive. Or in my case Wiser View attachment 405810If the option is there why not use it. But the older Hive did not have the option, so until we know what you have, all seems rather pointless. Please quote or reference my name when you answer like this @Westindiman so it will alert me that you have answered.

Hello @ericmark and thanks for replying. I am really really sorry but you have lost me a bit in regards to volt, non volt free and independant supply. I really dont know what the option my old property was wired would be called but I was requesting how to wire it the same way when the nuetral doesnt exist in the wiring. If I could wire from the nuetral I indicated a would run a new 3 cord wire from the boiler to the thermostat using also the common and live. Other than that I am open to hear how to wire from each boiler point to each back plate point. Thanks..

 

[polesapart]

Hive replaces programmer and room thermostat.

More detail of your current setup required.

 

[Westindiman]

Hive replaces programmer and room thermostat.

More detail of your current setup required.

My apologies, the setup at my new house is a Glow Worm boiler which is connected to the controls in the first picture, the glow worm connection is in the 2nd picture. The picture I am attaching now is how my Hive was connected at my old address

I am aware the 2 wires I have indicated are common and switched live were I would be connecting the red and yellow wire when I swap the Hive for the controller which is in the first picture. I have to run a neutral to where the furthest left brown wire is on the Hive and I am checking that its OK to add a wire to the neutral in picture 2 (from the Glow Worm boiler). Sorry for any confusion and not explaining well @ericmark and @polesapart.

 

[CountryFan]

You are getting mixed up because it you take a neutral to that thermostat, then it'll make naff all difference. Your boiler is using 24v output and negates the need for a neutral. Hive receiver requires a permanent live and permanent neutral, which can be taken from the boiler. Which model of glowworm?

 

[Westindiman]

You are getting mixed up because it you take a neutral to that thermostat, then it'll make naff all difference. Your boiler is using 24v output and negates the need for a neutral. Hive receiver requires a permanent live and permanent neutral, which can be taken from the boiler. Which model of glowworm?

Its a Glow worm Ultracom 38. Btw which thermostat do you mean when you say 'take a neutral to that thermostat, then it'll make naff all difference'? I need to replace that thermostat controller with the Hive hub which needs a ''permanent neutral'' as you have stated using the same wiring and adding neutral.

 

[CountryFan]

Its a Glow worm Ultracom 38. Btw which thermostat do you mean when you say 'take a neutral to that thermostat'? I need to wire the Hive which needs a ''permanent neutral'' as you have stated.

I must have misread your opening post or you edited as I thought it said to run a neutral to the existing thermostat but you keep going on about the neutral but the Hive receiver needs a live too. Piggyback the LNE at the boiler and use the 24v or the mains switching. Decomisson the existing thermostat

 

[ericmark]

You need two independent cables, you should not mix low and extra low voltage supplies in the same cable unless one of them is screened from the other cable. If a short run maybe OK but if a long run then again the extra low voltage cables should be screened if run with the power (low voltage) cables.

 

[Westindiman]

I must have misread your opening post or you edited as I thought it said to run a neutral to the existing thermostat but you keep going on about the neutral but the Hive receiver needs a live too. Piggyback the LNE at the boiler and use the 24v or the mains switching. Decomisson the existing thermostat

Thanks and I'm sorry I now realize I didn't explain it very well. It means I need to reposition the hive hub then as I cant use the wiring which goes to the current thermostat as its 3 ply (one wasn't being used). Thanks, I know now.