I think I have a WTF switch

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I bought this switch from tool station and I got very confused: https://www.toolstation.com/axiom-45a-dp-cooker-unit/p56870

Can anyone tell me if this is the supposed behaviour of the switch?

(1) For the socket to work, I have to turn on the cooker switch and turn on the socket switch. If either switch is off, the socket doesn't work.

(2) The back of the switch looks typical. It has 2 sets of live+neutral, and 2 joined earths. If I connect the sockets feed and not connect the cooker feed, the socket doesn't work. If I connect the cooker feed and not connect the sockets feed, the socket works in the way stated in (1). If I connect both feeds, the socket works as in (1).

The bag the switch came in says: Manufactured under an ISO9001:2008 Quality System accepted by BSI. This product to be installed in accordance with IEE regulations.
 
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You have wired the in/feed/supply and out/load/cooker cables the wrong way round.

There is no socket feed other than the mains supply.
 
You have wired the in/feed/supply and out/load/cooker cables the wrong way round.

There is no socket feed other than the mains supply.

Ok, you must be right. I was assuming the socket was fed separately.

On a related note, I don't have a full size cooker but only a gas stove with a sparking igniter. Is it OK for me to connect that to the cooker feed? Some guy told me that would be over powered and could be dangerous. Is he wrong?
 
Well, the new switch won't make any difference - as long as all was done properly before.

Is there a connector plate or socket behind the stove?
 
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Well, the new switch won't make any difference - as long as all was done properly before.

Is there a connector plate or socket behind the stove?

I inherited the ikea stove. It was wired into the cooker feed previously. But, I was told that might not be proper. So I have now fed the stove to a normal UK plug. Just wondering if I wasted my time doing that? All I have are 2 wires coming out from the stove.
 
Do you mean the stove wires were just connected to the switch and you now are using the plug?

What rating - Amps - is the fuse/MCB on the cooker circuit?
 
Well, there is a dedicated outlet for feeding a cooker. Previously the stove was wired into this outlet. The outlet is controlled by the cooker switch. The feed to the switch is fused with 30A. The feed to all sockets on the same floor is also fused 30A.

I have wired the stove into a UK plug with 3A fuse. It is plugged into a 4 gang extension lead. The lead is plugged into a wall socket.
 
So, it is not OK to wire the stove directly to the outlet for a cooker ?
Yes it is ok - but there are certain things that must be considered.

The stove flex will be too small for the 30A fuse but this might still be alright depending on certain characteristics of the circuit. Testing equipment is needed to determine these things.

You could use a smaller than 30A fuse in the consumer unit - OR
you could swap the cooker outlet for a socket and plug in there.

Both would definitely be alright.
 
Yes it is ok - but there are certain things that must be considered.

The stove flex will be too small for the 30A fuse but this might still be alright depending on certain characteristics of the circuit. Testing equipment is needed to determine these things.

You could use a smaller than 30A fuse in the consumer unit - OR
you could swap the cooker outlet for a socket and plug in there.

Both would definitely be alright.

OK, thanks. Based on the flex size consideration, I will not risk it. It will surely burn by 30A if there is a short circuit. It did work fine for 10+ years. I suppose it's never too late to catch a risk.
 

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