Ideal c28. No hot water

I dont have any idea bud - I dont deal in spares or have any clue what they cost!!

One of engs will know - someone like Agile, or corgiman or gas4you
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As yet I've never had to replace the magnetic flow switch ;)

Retail for the flow switch and filter is about £42 + VAT.

Personally I would replace the return assembly as a whole so there is a full parts warranty for the customer.

I'm not one to take apart, clean and replace components.

It ends up costing the same with the extra labour, but with no warranty :rolleyes:
have made this mistake before with biasi boilers. try turning the small magnet round the other way. the sensor relies on the magnet poles being the right way round. (well i think it does and 3 times they have failed on me it solved it )
That does sometimes work on these BUT al depends on state of float etc....
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After changing the all of the flow switch(electrical and mechanical) i still have no hot water!!! Just out of intrest,do the controls on the front have to be in any particular place because the spindles are both broken that go between the knobs and the PCB? Any help would be good because i've spent lots of money on it or even piont me to somebody who can fix it!!!!
i changed the diverter valve and put new PCB in but now i have no hot water but the heating works fine

hi Rochie when you put the new pcb in did you check the jumper settings are set for a combi and not a system boiler

there should be two jumpers. one over the number 2 and the other over the number 7 for a system boiler or over 8 for a combi

Replacing the magnetic shuttle should be done by a competent person which means usually CORGI as it requires removal of the gas valve.

I have normally managed to clean up the magnetic shuttle. I dont understand the references to reversing the magnet ( unless someone had dismantled it and put it back together backwards! ).

The Hall effect detector is polarity conscious. I expect that if the magnet was reversed the detector would operate if the sensor was unclipped and held in position backwards too.

The controls need to be in correct positions but those would coincide with heating on. The shafts can be reversed if the broken bits can be removed from inside the knobs. Thats tricky too. Shafts can be reassembled 180° out of position as well!

It sounds as if the boiler is now in a right old mess!

Is the red LED on the hall effect detector unit lighting with a demand for hot water?

If not have you somehow managed to reverse the DHW flow through the boiler?

We all immagine that this is a hitherto working boiler which has suddenly stopped working. Sometimes these postings hide the fact that its a second hand ( faulty ) boiler that they have just fitted!

Its difficult to imagine that a leasking diverter valve has got water into the PCB!

If the diverter gland has leaked that usually fails the motor actuator!


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