Ideal Classic FF250 Gas Boiler - Solenoid Clicking

PCB or GAS Valve

  • Total voters
10 Feb 2016
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United Kingdom
Hopefully someone has seen this fault before and can offer me some advice.
Last night our boiler started making a loud clicking sound. While clicking the gas was cycling low to normal. (video link to follow once I upload it to YouTube)
The clicking was coming from the Gas valve solenoid. ( )

After checking a few things it then worked fine all evening and this morning but then started clicking again.
Before I have the gas valve replaced (which I'm told rarely goes wrong) my thoughts are that it may be the PCB. The gas valve solenoid would only be on or off (told to do so by the PCB) and a failing component on the PCB may well be making it click rapidly.

Thanks in advance.
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Rather than a poll you should be calling an RGI to diagnose correctly. Both parts are essential to gas safety and you should not be messing with them or trying to replace them. This site is not allowed to give DIY gas advice.

Cheers Jon. I have had gas engineer round last night as I appreciate it is not a diy job being gas. It is either of the two parts though and rather than swap and see it would be good to get the right part/diagnosis first time. He had not seen a gas valve do this before so unsure which is causing the fault. We have also spoken to Ideal and they have said it's either of the two. That's why I thought it a good idea to ask if anyone else had seen this issue.

Here's the video link if anyone can assist with "will pass on to Gas Safe Registered person" advice. :)

It only seems to do this after the boiler has been on a while and luckily has brought the house up to temperature. That says to me that it is more likely pcb related as that could have been damaged over time with all the expanding/contracting I assume it does right next to a hot boiler.
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A common fault on the PCBs of several makes of boiler was failure of solder joints where the hole was too large for the pin. Hence the mechanical strength of the joint depended entirely on the solder resisting all the mechanical strains on the joint. Worse case was where cable with socket ends plugged onto a row of pins in the board. Vibration in the cable had to be absorbed by the solder around the pins and these joints failed. The pins should have been a tight fit, pressed into place before being soldered with the pin to fibre glass contact being the mechanical strength of the joint. In fact they were a loose fit to ease assembly of the PCBs by avoiding the need to press the pins into place.
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This sounds like a DIYer who expects to repair the boiler himself.

Surely you need to call a competent RGI who will decide what is wrong and do the repair.

You don't need to pay for a part which is not required to solve the problem.

I have seen both parts causing that fault.

A simple diagnostic test identifies which one it is.

You seem to need a better RGI and one who will charge you for his diagnosis.

Never expect to get a free diagnosis.

When someone tries that, a clever RGI will intentionally say its the wrong part.

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Hi Tony,
Thanks for your comment. Not ideal that both parts can cause this fault but hey ho. Appreciate through a forum you never know what the motive is but this is not a diy attempt. I have no intention of trying to repair the boiler myself which is why the other evening when the noise first started I called upon a good friend who is a gas engineer. I purely want to know what may be causing the fault and to aid if I can rather than bother him when he is very busy with "proper customers". He kindly dropped round on his way home. He had never heard a boiler make this noise and we diagnosed it down to two parts after taking it apart and checking a few things. On calling Ideal the next day they also confirmed it was one of two parts. The initial plan was to change the valve as that was clicking but then thought as it was clicking it may actually be ok and the pcb may be causing it to go haywire. Obviously we would have to pay for a part that we buy and fit even if it does not solve the problem as it would become "used" so would not be able to be returned.

If you can advise on what "simple diagnostic test" would identify the failing part that would be helpful for me to tell him.

Of course I am not going to advise you on work that would enable you to do a DIY repair!

If YOU decide to purchase a part on spec than obviously you have to pay for it. That's what a DIYer does.

But you say that you do not intend a DIY repair in spite of all the diagnostic questions that you are asking.

The normal procedure is to engage an RGI to diagnose and repair the fault. It is up to him to correctly diagnose the problem. You will then only need to pay for the one part needed.

To me, it is only a very simple test for an RGI to make to determine what is causing your fault.

But be aware that not all RGIs have diagnostic skills. Many just fit gas meters or new boilers. Only a fairly small proportion specialise in repairing boilers.

Ideal may still cover your model with their own engineers.

I'm sure he does but at the time he was there we were set on it being the valve until further research gave us another option. If it is pcb can an electrician look at it and re-solder / replace components? If not touching the "Gas" itself then a competent person can do that surely?
I'll update you once he changes the pcb although it has worked fine yesterday and this morning. Typical.
Fixed price repair from ideal is the way to go then?
Engineer friend swapping out PCB for me. We will see if that resolves it.
Did he not try to diagnose what is at fault?

Maybe he does not know how to use his meter?

Do you now what his normal work entails?

Hi Tony, When he was round it was assumed that the valve was at fault and not considered pcb at the time. No testing was done on the PCB but that was a cheap part so we are swapping that as soon as it arrives.
All heating and plumbing work I believe. He's very good at what he does and is a great chap so I'm happy with what he says.

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