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Ideal Classic ff40 problem

Discussion in 'Plumbing and Central Heating' started by Jezzy, 16 Jan 2010.

  1. Jezzy

    Jezzy

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    Just posted this in the main forum also.
    Just changed the pump as it was ****'d but the boiler is still doing the same thing, it fires up for about 20 secs and then cuts out?
    Does anyone have any idea what the problem might be?
    Thanks in advance.
     
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  3. slapper

    slapper

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    Is the flow pipe getting hot,check that theres no air in the pump,have you bled it?
     
  4. nogoodatfaultfinding

    nogoodatfaultfinding

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    The pipework between the Vent, Cold Feed and Flow is blocked.
    Try sticking a magnet on it.
     
  5. slapper

    slapper

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    Think your on the wrong thread,could that answer be meant for bazza
     
  6. nogoodatfaultfinding

    nogoodatfaultfinding

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    Still thinks your right :D
     
  7. nogoodatfaultfinding

    nogoodatfaultfinding

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    Although i posted wrongly earlier this could still be your problem as your boiler is obviously overheating and with only 20 secs in its tank its only circulating itself.

    Try manually opening your 2/3 port valve and see what happens.
     
  8. Jezzy

    Jezzy

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    Have been fannying around with the pump for the last hour or so. It doesn't seem like the water is getting through the pump and i thought that that would make the boiler go out on the overheat stat. How can i get the water coming back through? I've done it manually with a screwdriver on the impeller shaft, and i've sucked water through the air vent pipe but when i stop, it doesn't seem like there's any water going through the pump still? This started just after the customer had bled 2 radiators last week. Nothing is frozen up and every pipe in the loft is lagged. Had 3 port in all 3 positions but it's still the same. Been told by a local engineer that it is the gas valve solenoid and to fit a new gas valve. Don't want to bankrupt the customer if that isn't it though.
     
  9. slapper

    slapper

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    Silly question but,are the pump valves open?,if they are then it could be as Nogoodetc says,cold feed blocked. Stick a magnet on the pipe then youll know.
     
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  11. Jezzy

    Jezzy

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    If a magnet sticks does that mean it's blocked or it's not blocked?
    Don't have a magnet anyway, pump valves are open though. Both tanks are full and water is coming through all the taps, hot and cold.
     
  12. slapper

    slapper

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    Why dont you test out the Gas valve then?
     
  13. Jezzy

    Jezzy

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    Why dont you test out the Gas valve then?

    How do i do that? it fires up for about 20secs then cuts out. Was told by local engineer that it's the solenoid that sticks and you can't buy it separately, so you have to buy a new gas valve. That means waiting till monday now.
     
  14. nogoodatfaultfinding

    nogoodatfaultfinding

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    If you have no water in the pump then leave the GV alone for now.

    Did you change the pump valves when you changed the pump?
    If not start here as they are terrible for sticking closed even though they look open from the outside.
     
  15. Jezzy

    Jezzy

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    If you have no water in the pump then leave the GV alone for now.

    Did you change the pump valves when you changed the pump?
    If not start here as they are terrible for sticking closed even though they look open from the outside.[/quote]

    No i didn't change the pump valves but they are not old and knackered and they seemed to open up ok, no problem opening them, but there should be water there unless it is airlocked somewhere? This is why i was there for so long, trying to get water circulating. That would make the boiler cut out wouldn't it? if there is no water circulating? Would it cut out in 20 secs though? Or could it be the gas valve?
     
  16. nogoodatfaultfinding

    nogoodatfaultfinding

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    No i didn't change the pump valves but they are not old and knackered and they seemed to open up ok, no problem opening them, but there should be water there unless it is airlocked somewhere? This is why i was there for so long, trying to get water circulating. That would make the boiler cut out wouldn't it? if there is no water circulating? Would it cut out in 20 secs though? Or could it be the gas valve?[/quote]

    How would you know they opened up ok unless you tried them without the pump on.
    Pump valves will seem to open ok on the screw or if your lucky on the spindle but will be actually shut tight.
    Best course of action would be to drain down and change these!!
    To answer your question yes the boiler would overheat and cut out due to lack of water and yes within 20 seconds
     
  17. Jezzy

    Jezzy

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    How would you know they opened up ok unless you tried them without the pump on.
    Pump valves will seem to open ok on the screw or if your lucky on the spindle but will be actually shut tight.
    Best course of action would be to drain down and change these!!
    To answer your question yes the boiler would overheat and cut out due to lack of water and yes within 20 seconds[/quote]

    Well they shut ok, so i'm guessing that they opened up ok as well, there was no real hardship in turning them, did it with the hexagonal bit inside and it just seemed like they weren't stuck. Will have to check it out though, beginning to wish i'd left this one alone. What could have caused this to have happened in the first place? Bloke just bled 2 upstairs rads and then boiler started cutting out. Pump valves won't shut up on their own. Could the pipes have iced up somewhere in the system? All pipework is lagged.
     
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