Ideal Classic ff40 problem

[slapper]

If you have no water in the pump then leave the GV alone for now.

Did you change the pump valves when you changed the pump?
If not start here as they are terrible for sticking closed even though they look open from the outside.

No i didn't change the pump valves but they are not old and knackered and they seemed to open up ok, no problem opening them, but there should be water there unless it is airlocked somewhere? This is why i was there for so long, trying to get water circulating. That would make the boiler cut out wouldn't it? if there is no water circulating? Would it cut out in 20 secs though? Or could it be the gas valve?

How would you know they opened up ok unless you tried them without the pump on.
Pump valves will seem to open ok on the screw or if your lucky on the spindle but will be actually shut tight.
Best course of action would be to drain down and change these!!
To answer your question yes the boiler would overheat and cut out due to lack of water and yes within 20 seconds[/quote]


For all we know,it could be a sealed system. God forbid

 

[gas_man_gaz]

pilot solenoid is quite a common fault on the classic and is easy to check, just look though the sight glass or at the pcb and see if its sparking but not lighting. if it is, its a 5min job and ya can get um separately

 

[twgas]

The pipework between the Vent, Cold Feed and Flow is blocked.
Try sticking a magnet on it.

I beleive this wil be your problem - posted 3hours ago - have you investigated this?

 

[gas_man_gaz]

if ya turn the stat on the boiler up to full does the pipework around the boiler get mad hot or just warm? norm wen its not circulating it would bang a bit

 

[Jezzy]

pilot solenoid is quite a common fault on the classic and is easy to check, just look though the sight glass or at the pcb and see if its sparking but not lighting. if it is, its a 5min job and ya can get um separately

It is lighting and firing up then stays lit (burner) for about 20 secs then cuts out. Could be cos water isn't circulating or could be a faulty gas valve, or maybe something else?

 

[nogoodatfaultfinding]

pilot solenoid is quite a common fault on the classic and is easy to check, just look though the sight glass or at the pcb and see if its sparking but not lighting. if it is, its a 5min job and ya can get um separately

Hes already stated it fires for 20 seconds or so, so it must be just circulating the boiler.

 

[gas_man_gaz]

i've already read that
the pilot solenoid (wen at fault) normally drops out wen its warm causing the main burner to go out but the boiler will continue to spark as they will be no flame detected.
wen it goes out just see if its sparking???
ya never said if the pipework around the boiler is getting red hot???

 

[Jezzy]

The pipework between the Vent, Cold Feed and Flow is blocked.
Try sticking a magnet on it.

I beleive this wil be your problem - posted 3hours ago - have you investigated this?

Not that familiar with Y plans so wouldn't know which pipe to check and i don't have a magnet anyway as mentioned, but this is why i was up in the loft as i thought maybe a blockage/or airlock, all pipes are lagged though and are internal. Was bloody cold up here last week though. I will try the gas valve and he will just have a spare if it isn't that. I will let you know the outcome, thanks to everyone who has commented, and i'm sorry to those who got riled up, i wasn't taking the pizz.

 

[gas_man_gaz]

pilot solenoid is quite a common fault on the classic and is easy to check, just look though the sight glass or at the pcb and see if its sparking but not lighting. if it is, its a 5min job and ya can get um separately

Hes already stated it fires for 20 seconds or so, so it must be just circulating the boiler.

no it doesn't. i've changed about 20 where the solenoid fails wen warm.

 

[nogoodatfaultfinding]

i've already read that
the pilot solenoid (wen at fault) normally drops out wen its warm causing the main burner to go out but the boiler will continue to spark as they will be no flame detected.
wen it goes out just see if its sparking???
ya never said if the pipework around the boiler is getting red hot???

Sorry mate never knew that myself

He has stated on this or the other topic he started that the pipes are hot up to the pump.

 

[Jezzy]

if ya turn the stat on the boiler up to full does the pipework around the boiler get mad hot or just warm? norm wen its not circulating it would bang a bit[/quote]
Boiler stat is on full and no banging noise, boiler just cuts out after about 20 secs on full heat.

 

[Jezzy]

He has stated on this or the other topic he started that the pipes are hot up to the pump.[/quote]

I've not stated that anywhere. pipes are all cold, not enough time for them to get warm in 20 secs.

 

[nogoodatfaultfinding]

The pipework between the Vent, Cold Feed and Flow is blocked.
Try sticking a magnet on it.

I beleive this wil be your problem - posted 3hours ago - have you investigated this?

Not that familiar with Y plans so wouldn't know which pipe to check and i don't have a magnet anyway as mentioned, but this is why i was up in the loft as i thought maybe a blockage/or airlock, all pipes are lagged though and are internal. Was bloody cold up here last week though. I will try the gas valve and he will just have a spare if it isn't that. I will let you know the outcome, thanks to everyone who has commented, and i'm sorry to those who got riled up, i wasn't taking the pizz.

Forget what plan it is and your lack of knowledge maybe its time to learn rather than going to someones house and changing a gas valve that does not need it.

Right go to the cylinder cupboard and on the wall (Usually beside each other there will be a 22mm and 15mm pipe which will at some point at floor level join each other.

If you dont have that you will have it higher up and it will look like an H in the pipework.

 

[gas_man_gaz]

does the flow pipe at the boiler get red hot though?????? if its not circulating it would get up to around 90 degrees... yes or no plz

 

[nogoodatfaultfinding]

Also for gods sake get a magnet, they cost about 50p for a strong one or surely you have one on your fridge.