ideal HE24 combi boiler - no power

[beezo]

Hi guys,

my boiler was working fine this morning and now all of a sudden the boiler went off. i did not realise till i wanted some hot water. looked at the boiler and no light on the control panel. checked the fused spur, neon light is on so thats ok. took out the connection bit and tested the wires, 240v showing so power is getting to the boiler but it wont power up.

i checked the switch on the boiler, power coming in and power going to pcb board when it is switch on. The fuse on the PCB board is fine. there is 6volts showing on meter from pcb board to control panel but no lights on the control panel

im thinking it will be either the control panel or the pcb board that is at fault. before i order replacements, how can i verify that it is indeed the pcb board or control panel that is at fault??

 

[kevindgas]

1. you cant as far as i know
2. most likely you will have to replace both
3. Ideal will deny all knowledge of faults with their PCB/Control panels
4. don't expect any customer service what so ever from Ideal!

 

[beezo]

this boiler was installed when i moved in this house. it was fitted as part of the warm front scheme. my relative has exactly the same boiler.

would it be ok if i take the control unit out of my boiler and either install it in my relatives boiler or fit their control unit in mine. that way i can tell if its the control unit that is at fault. if its not the control unit then it has to be the pcb

what do you think??

 

[gas4you]

Risky.

The fan is notorious for taking out the pcb, as well as the pcb blowing of it's own accord.

If you fit your relatives to yours and it was the fan that took yours out, then it will take theirs out and will cost you 2 boards.

Your fan needs checking as per MI's first.

 

[kevindgas]

depends on the PCB's as the old ****e wont work with the new ****e!

 

[beezo]

well, i took your advice and didnt put my relatives control panels in my boiler. i did however put my control panel in their boiler and im pleased to say it works

this obviously means it a problem with the pcb! if i disconnet the fan, will the boiler power up if it was the fan at fault or will the pcb be duff anyway??

only other option is to fit my pcb in my relatives boiler and see what happens?? what do u think about doing that

 

[compheat]

Ive just replaced a PCB on a 24HE Isar, the display board was blank, spoke to a couple of council lads who are changing these all day long
THey said if dispay is blank then 100% PCB fault. check resistance across fan (2 outer wires) it should be 100 to 150 ohms otherwise the fan is also faulty and like as already been said this also takes out the PCB.
Cost of new PCB aprox £130 plus vat

 

[beezo]

anyone offer me more advice please - house is cold and i have 4 children all under 10. no fireplace to warm the place up

 

[davebgas]

Everyone is quick to blame the board... You have put connections back the right way? Mains top left if board is folded up? Seen too many to count when this has happened after tinkering. User control stays blank, people keep throwing pcbs at it when it's wires in wrong socket.

Aye pcbs are queer but as said fan etc are guilty of taki g them out. As is having more than 6v on the neutral.

 

[beezo]

can someone tell me what exactly cause the pcb to be taken out by the fan??

also what do you mean regarding the 6V on the neutral?? how do i test for this

 

[davebgas]

6v on neutral = test between neutral and earth.
Pcb internals don't like it. Dutch manufacturer

just test the fan if it's resistance is ok then it's fine. It's like anything that shorts, board takes the brunt.

 

[beezo]

thanx mate.

will test it tomorrow and see what happens

 

[davebgas]

BTW only gas safe engineers can go doing anything with the fan. Just check your pcb connections

 

[beezo]

hi guys,

got my mate round who is a gas reg plumber. He dont know much about electrics so i had him here with me whilst i had a look around the boiler.

any way, tested the ohms from the two outer wires on the fan and found it to be in between 100-150ohms (110 in fact) but also tested the voltage from the neutral to earth and found that to be 28V

so it looks like the fan is indeed suspect. anyone explain why the ohms readings would be within spec but the fan showing 28V on the neutral

also confirmed PCB dead by putting it in relatives boiler. no power there either.

so all in all guys, do u think im best ordering a fan and a PCB?? also would u order the V9 version PCB or stick to the old version

 

[beezo]

could someone just confirm the above post is correct before i order a new PCB and new fan assembly please

would be really greatful and i thank everyone for their help with this. it is very much appreciated