I'm scared to change the oil because I think I stripped the sump threads last time, but it needsdoin

[Rightboy91]

If the OP bless him takes the sump plug out and finds the sump thread has pulled out with it
He’ll need a plan B because the car may well be undriveable.
Take it from me, if a suction pump leaves a bit of oil behind it won’t matter at all......use a quality oil and filter and all will be well.
Many diesels now don’t need an oil drop until 18k - if you dare - so an oil change at 5k or whatever must be sheer luxury!
John

Hey John

I am hoping when I take out the plug it will come out easily and not bring the threads out with it. If this happens can a new thread be tapped in ? If not I guess I will be attempting a sump replacement myself at home but I really hope that will not be the case and I hope a new oil drain bolt will suffice.

Out of curiosity how much would a small garage charge labour only to fit the sump ?

I think I will try drain it from the dipstick next week but on the next oil change I want to investigate the sump and see if it is just the bolt that needs replacing. I am not sure it is a problem with just the drain plug as the drain plug was new 1 or 2 oil changes prior to the most recent oil change and it visibly looked ok as far as I remember but it was very tight going back in.

I want to do frequent oil changers oin it at about every 5 - 7 k , especially now it is almost at 200 k, it has around 198,370 miles on the clock right now.

cheers

 

[DIYspanner]

Hi
I don't think the sump bolt will be in tight enough if I was to screw it in by hand. (if that's what you mean ? )

No, no, no! (my impression of Jim Trott, Vicar of Dibely)
What I mean is, if you can hand turn the nut/bolt all way in (or out), then its not crossed.

 

[Rightboy91]

No, no, no! (my impression of Jim Trott, Vicar of Dibely)
What I mean is, if you can hand turn the nut/bolt all way in (or out), then its not crossed.

hi

So do you mean if I break it loose with the ratchet and then if I can twist it all the way out with my hand and back in then it is not cross threaded ? do you mean take old one out and get a new plug and try screwing it in by hand ?

thanks

 

[Lower]

Ask any REAL mechanic.
That's where I learned some of the tricks, not on a forum.

I’d be amazed if you can find a current mechanic that advocates this. Oil dilution is a major problem in the current generation of Diesel engines.

 

[Rightboy91]

Ask any REAL mechanic.
That's where I learned some of the tricks, not on a forum.

Hi

I am not disputing your advice, I appreciate it thanks. I just feel wary to pour diesel down where oil is supposed to go, I'd rather flush it out with engine oil. thanks

 

[Burnerman]

I guess this argy bargy could run and run, but for what it's worth, here's my input:

Do not dilute the engine oil with anything. The shock loading on a crankshaft is enormous, especially on diesel engines. If you think you really must use something then use a quality flushing oil but don't run the engine under load - the bearing shells won't cope with it for any length of time.
Have a look at some bearing shells from engines that have run on diluted oil, and admire the lovely copper colour.
(Unfortunately the same will apply with 0 grade lubricants.....great for MPG and emissions, less so for the engine. Do the manufacturers care? Not one jot).

If you want to flush out any swarf then tipping some diesel down the oil filler hole will be ok with the sump plug out - it doesn't go anywhere important, and just runs out the bottom, hopefully carrying the swarf with it.

John

 

[Burnerman]

Hey John

I am hoping when I take out the plug it will come out easily and not bring the threads out with it. If this happens can a new thread be tapped in ? If not I guess I will be attempting a sump replacement myself at home but I really hope that will not be the case and I hope a new oil drain bolt will suffice.

Out of curiosity how much would a small garage charge labour only to fit the sump ?

I think I will try drain it from the dipstick next week but on the next oil change I want to investigate the sump and see if it is just the bolt that needs replacing. I am not sure it is a problem with just the drain plug as the drain plug was new 1 or 2 oil changes prior to the most recent oil change and it visibly looked ok as far as I remember but it was very tight going back in.

I want to do frequent oil changers oin it at about every 5 - 7 k , especially now it is almost at 200 k, it has around 198,370 miles on the clock right now.

cheers

When the sump plug comes out it may bring aluminium thread swarf with it.
First I would attempt to re tap the sump with the original size but if the damage is severe then its the next size up for you. I've no idea what the thread size is.

Depending on the engine, the oil pick up pipe and strainer may be inclusive in the sump. In this case its vital that a new sealing washer is in place when the sump goes back on.

Expect maybe 2 hours labour to replace the sump - maybe less if the exhaust doesn't have to be dropped. It all depends whether there is a crossmember in the way beneath the sump - I've no idea on that one, but if there is a crossmember present the car really needs to be on a ramp.

John

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

Won't he look under his car already?

 

[DIYspanner]

hi

So do you mean if I break it loose with the ratchet and then if I can twist it all the way out with my hand and back in then it is not cross threaded ? do you mean take old one out and get a new plug and try screwing it in by hand ?
thanks

If you screw in cross threaded by force, then you won't be able to screw back out by hand.

Fasteners already in situ are obviously not cross threaded and will screw out, difficulty depending on the amount of rust.

Its the fitting of the nut/bolt that you should focus on. If you have a clean thread, a fastener with good thread should go back on by hand no bother. Next mechanical job to do on the car, take into a garage and watch the experience mechanic at work.

 

[Munroast]

About half a cupful if you’re lucky and that’s only because of the time taken jacking up the car, removing the under shield and taking the nut out allows a bit more to drain down inside. You’d probably get that out with the sucker if you stopped sucking and waited for about the same time. Normally the suction tube touches the the bottom of the sump anyway so you’d probably get more out of your engine with a sucker.

Time for its oil change and thought I would have a go sucking it out rather than draining. Do you push a tube down the dip stick pipe or does something fit over the dipstick pipe?

I'm guessing I push a tube down, but with a flexable hose how do I know it is touching the bottom. ?

I have a rubber pipe and it is going down 9mm deeper than the bottom of the dipstick before it stops - do you reckon that is it ?

pipe only has internal dia of 3.4mm is that big enough?

 

[Mottie]

My 'sucker' is a hard plastic pipe. Very thin and it has a wire inside to keep it stiff. You can hear/feel when it hits the bottom of the sump. Make sure the oil is hot though to thin it out - will take ages to suck out if it is cold.

 

[Munroast]

found this image of the same engie, the dip stick tube is nt how I imagined it to be, can't see a suction pipe going all the way through that

image taken from the following youtube video
youtube video

 

[sxturbo]

You can buy sump thread repair kits.

Best thing to do is bite the bullet and take it out,

Drill the hole if required for the new threaded insert, and tap it, use a magnet in the sump to pick up all the loose shaving you would have made.

Don't pour diesel into the oil,

I know first hand what diesel in oil does to an engine and it's far to thin, if left too long also it can eat away at the bearings.

Don't use an engine flush either, just do more regular oil changes, over time it will clear up.

Modern oil has plenty of detergents in it to try and keep the engine clean as service intervals have now become verging on the side of rediculous

 

[Burnerman]

found this image of the same engie, the dip stick tube is nt how I imagined it to be, can't see a suction pipe going all the way through that

image taken from the following youtube video
youtube video

Which engine is it?
Any suction pipe will stop at that first bend - I suppose you could measure the amount of oil that you manage to extract to give you some idea.
The common rail VAG engines have access to the filter from underneath so there’s no choice but to drop the shield off.
John

 

[Mottie]

Any suction pipe will stop at that first bend

Is that the dipstick tube? Looks too thick - looks like an oil pickup/return pipe to me - surely no dipstick goes through that many twists and turns to get to the oil?