Improving Kitchen cupboard doors

[Ratty]

Hi,
I have some solid wood (oak?) cupboard doors in my kitchen.
They are traditional style, which is fine, but have a dark, aged treatment which, to me, makes them look dirty and dull.
In particular they have blackened corners to all the recesses, it really looks ugly.
I do not want to paint the doors as I would rather have a natural wood look.

Is there any way I can get rid of this treatment and get back to bare wood so I can re-treat them in a lighter style?

Thanks,

Ratty

 

[Scrit]

Hi Ratty

You could try getting a pine furnitre stripper to remove the finish which might or might not work depending upon how they've been finished. Just put one door in as a test to start with. Don't be surprised if they come out with all different grain/colours of rails and stiles, though, the stain is meant to hide that! Also don't be surprised if your doors self-destruct - the joints in these doors is a glued butt joint which might not stand up too well to stripping (although you could always reglue them)

Scrit

 

[WoodYouLike]

Hi,
I have some solid wood (oak?) cupboard doors in my kitchen.
They are traditional style, which is fine, but have a dark, aged treatment which, to me, makes them look dirty and dull.
In particular they have blackened corners to all the recesses, it really looks ugly.

Oak and blackened corners could mean moist damage and will be very hard to remove cause the moist could have got in very deep.

 

[Scrit]

Oak and blackened corners could mean moist damage and will be very hard to remove cause the moist could have got in very deep.

Yes, but it could equally mean a "patinated" finishing technique, too. Any chance of posting a photo?

Scrit

 

[Ratty]

Thanks,

Yes, the blackened effect is not from aging but has been purposely applied to simulate aging, really stupid if you ask me, there are some effects of wood aging which look nice, but not this one!

Image here:

 

[Ratty]

Oops, sorry slightly larger image than I`d intended

 

[Scrit]

Hi Ratty

Yep, that's what finishers call patinated corners. Damned silly if you ask me because they never put on the edge and panel centre wear marks to go with it....

How light it will come out depends on whether or not the doors were stained before spraying or if the lacquer was coloured - pre-stained (the "proper" way) will need extra bleaching after stripping. The doors are possibly finished in a tinted pre-catalysed lacquer which means that you'd be best off finding a competent door/pine stripper who knows about Paramose lacquer strippers. Nitromors or caustic soda won't touch this type of lacquer and the strippers they need are well beyond home/DIY use as they are acid-based (I believe). Get a drawer front done and see how it comes out - but be warned that stripping this type of door, which is held together only by the strength of the glue joint, can cause the doors to fall apart because the glue joints sometimes fail. With the type of frame and panel they are it would take forever to sand them, you'll dub over the edges and you'll probably not get all the finish off.

If the stripping works and the oak is still a bit dark (remember even wax or a clear lacquer will darken the wood slightly) the oak might respond to bleaching using calcium hypochlorite (chlorine bleach) or a 2-part peroxide bleach (sodium hydroxide and strong hydrogen peroxide). Chlorime bleaches are good for removin dye stains whilst peroxides are best at removing the natural wood colour.

Whatever you do remember that all the chemicals I've mentioned are hazardous - so wear protective clothing, gloves, goggles and a mask when handling or using them and work in a properly ventilated space.

Scrit

 

[Ratty]

Thanks Scrit for the very comprehensive answer.

It does sound like a great deal of bother, and expense, to go to, it would probably work out cheaper just to replace them.

I can probably re-task the doors in some other room, or in the workshop I am building.

Thanks again.

Ratty