Induction hob - "no power between live and neutral"

Is the size of the cable large enough to safely carry the current drawn by the hob?

Is the cable size matched to the circuit protective device, ie fuse, circuit breaker or RCBO?
 
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The load of the hob should be written on the underside, possibly on a sticker near where the cable attaches.

The way those conductors are jointed is wholly inadequate.
 
Is the size of the cable large enough to safely carry the current drawn by the hob?

Is the cable size matched to the circuit protective device, ie fuse, circuit breaker or RCBO?

The flex is typical of what is factory fitted to hobs.
2 phase connection also suitable for europe.

I'd be more worried about the grey twin and earth size. Looks 2.5mm ? But if its on a 20A mcb then we don't have any worries.
You can adjust current limiting on NEFFs in the settings. I think it can go as low as 10A!
 
Ok, so update. I switched the sockets off at the fusebox and started checking the wiring and got a bit of a surprise when things started lighting up!

Turns out the hob is actually on the cooker fuse and is operated by the switch, as below. Looking behind the faceplate of the switch, there is a loose black wire. Where does this need to be wired back into?
PXL_20210528_085933420.jpg
PXL_20210528_085933420.jpg PXL_20210528_085649688.jpg PXL_20210528_085933420.jpg PXL_20210528_085649688.jpg
 
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Same place as the blue.

At least it looks thick enough.

Don't really want lots of copper exposed
 
Andy, the 2.5 was what I was talking about.

The OP needs to make sure the load on that cable does not exceed its maximum, or if it does, to replace it with something more suitable. Now we can see 6 milli leaving the switch, there has to be a joint between the 6 leaving the switch and the 2.5 and the appliance flex, which is not ideal, even if the terminations were in keeping with regs, which the ones we can see are not.
 
Well the hob is working which was my original concern but what can I do to bring the setup up to scratch on this?
 
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The OP needs to make sure the load on that cable does not exceed its maximum, or if it does, to replace it with something more suitable. Now we can see 6 milli leaving the switch, there has to be a joint between the 6 leaving the switch and the 2.5 and the appliance flex, which is not ideal, even if the terminations were in keeping with regs, which the ones we can see are not.
 

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