Inspection Chamber or Rodding Eye

[DJ_DIY]

Hi

Currently in the middle of building an extension.

The old inspection chamber/manhole is being removed and the drain are being split at that point for the washing machine and sink. The WM will be connected with a 110mm coming out the floor, and a 50mm reducer behind the washing machine and the upright pipe to push the WM waste pipe into.

How much space does this take up and will the WM be able to go all the way back to the wall?

As the drain is now split and the WM and sink join to this under the floor, each drain will need access for rodding. Does it need an inspection chamber or can a rodding point be used? A plastic inspection chamber seems overkill with its 6 inputs as there will only be one drain connected to it.
The sink is on the side of the house so the inspection chamber isn't too much of an eye sore but the WM leg will be right outside the bi fold doors on the patio. Smaller the better really in my mind.

Also the idea place would be as indicated, but the builders haven't chosen that position. Is there any reason why the WM inspection chamber couldn't go there?

Thanks

 

[stevie888]

You need to discuss with BC before you decide to make sure they're happy. Why not just leave it in place an stick a sealed cover on?

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Is there any access from the downstream end of this run? I'd run both to at or just above Finished floor level, and fit reducing caps, both sink and W/M are ok on 40mm wastes, bear in mind both will need Traps fitted.

In the rare event the underground runs did ever block, access can be achieved from the top end, although it is always preferable to try and clear from downstream, externally.

 

[DJ_DIY]

Downstream is the other side of the house. so I can rod upstream but we are going with the two inspection chambers, ill just have to hide them in/under the patio on either side.

What is confusing me now though is the 110mm has to come out the floor somewhere. If it's against the wall as tight as possible behind the WM in the corner and an offset Reducer is added, will I have enough space behind the WM so it sits under the 600mm worktop correctly?

Where is the best place to put the 110mm as I dont have any cupboards near by. I have a WM, TD, fridge freezer.

Thanks

 

[DJ_DIY]

It feels like ive got two options:

Chisel into the concrete blocks a couple of inches
and/or
add a stud wall so the 40mm standpipe is within it and the washer can fit as normal.

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

110mm doesn't need to come out of the floor, with some careful measuring, get it to finish either at or just below finished floor level, and bring the waste up against the wall behind the washing machine, in a corner if preferred so the standpipe doesn't foul the back of the machine.

 

[DJ_DIY]

Sorry I mean the 110mm will be coming out the floor, but will be cut at ffl when I install the ifh.

Ive chiselled back about 2cm of sand/cement render and plaster so that's a saving.

If the standpipe is in the corner then the washer has to come out if the tumble dryer comes out. Be good to go the standpipe half burried in the wall somewhere between the two appliances.

 

[DJ_DIY]

I think I'm ok with the 110mm positioned 40mm in the wall about 600mm off the right hand wall, so the TD can share the 40mm. If its not deep enough I can always add a sheet of plasterboard or some more render and plaster.

Now the other side with the sink and DW has got me thinking....
The proposed plan is to have the 110mm entry (red circle) and 40mm plumbing up against the wall on the right in the space behind a cupboard.
1) I don't think the 40mm will go behind the dishwasher, and if it does it will be very low and won't have enough fall to get to the 110mm.
2) In nearly every house I've owned, at some point I've had to remove all the 40mm and stick a broom handle in it to clear a blockage. I won't be able to do this if the 40mm is in the maintenance void behind the cabinet.

Ideas:

Hack the 40mm into the internal skin so it goes behind dishwasher.
Tastefully remove the back of the unit so full access to the 40mm can be had.

Put the 110mm outside the house and have all the plumbing under the kitchen sink with the 40mm through the wall and down and into the drain?

Thoughts please !

 

[23vc]

I’d go through the wall to an outside gulley/110mm bung. Easy access to clear blockages via a 40mm tee with access plug where it comes out the wall.

 

[23vc]

On the washing machine side, can’t you just run a standpipe up the back of the machine (washing machines are normally a bit shallower than dishwashers aren’t they?) and right down the bottom, a couple of offsets to bring it out a bit to suit the 110mm, which the cut-off section at the bottom of the machine should clear…

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

If the sink and dishwasher are against the outside wall, then makes sense to take the 110mm through and put a Gully outside. Keeps awkward pipework internally to a minimum, and as 23vc has said, fit a cleaning eye in the waster where it comes through the wall if you're concerned about the waste pipe blocking.

Also, if you use a Bottle type gully these have built in rodding access, so in the event of an issue you've got another point of access to the underground run externally.