Installing an electric range

[roboughton]

Hi I intend to buy an electric range for my new kitchen.

The one we want is all electric with a max electric load @230v of 15.6KW

now that is high and I am wondering how the spark is going to do it, I want to make sure he does it correct.

It will require a new cable to the kitchen what size will he use?

What switch will he use in the kitchen and how will he terminate it to my DB? will it need its onw DB with it being that high?

I know enough about electrics to get by and I will be doing the donkey work on this he will terminate and test.

When they quote me I want to make sure he is doing the right thing and the price wont be higher at the end etc.

FYI the cooker is a Rangemaster Classic 110 All Electric Induction, Ceramic. no mains gas and I dont want to use LPG as it costs enough to heat the house without the cooking costing a fortune too.

 

[RF Lighting]

Using the on site guide, you can diversify that load down to around 30A.

Personally I think the figures are a little bit on the small side.

I would be inclined to fit a 45A supply.

Depending on the individual requirements of your property such as length of run, and atmospheric conditions, I would expect a 10mm² supply through either a 45A or 50A double pole switch.

Again, without knowing the age and condition of your existing installation it is difficult to say whether your existing CU (or incommer for that matter) will have the capacity to supply this load.

 

[roboughton]

Many thanks for the reply.

I will make sure i get a 45amp supply, the DB is about 8-10 years old and almost full, I will make sure they fit a new isolator with mcb from the meter i have an old storage heater DB that is redundant and can be removed and the tails utalised will let you know how it all goes when its done in a few months

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I know enough about electrics to get by and I will be doing the donkey work on this he will terminate and test.

You have cleared this with him, I hope?

If you're in England or Wales this is notifiable work, so he's going to have to lie to say he did it all - you'll be in for a rude shock if you think you can do first fix and then get it certified if you've not agreed it all with him.

When they quote me I want to make sure he is doing the right thing and the price wont be higher at the end etc.

OK - now you know.

Has that helped you to know what the price should be?

i have an old storage heater DB that is redundant and can be removed and the tails utalised

Possibly.

Or possibly you'll only be able to cook at night.

 

[roboughton]

I know enough about electrics to get by and I will be doing the donkey work on this he will terminate and test.

You have cleared this with him, I hope?

If you're in England or Wales this is notifiable work, so he's going to have to lie to say he did it all - you'll be in for a rude shock if you think you can do first fix and then get it certified if you've not agreed it all with him.

When they quote me I want to make sure he is doing the right thing and the price wont be higher at the end etc.

OK - now you know.

Has that helped you to know what the price should be?

i have an old storage heater DB that is redundant and can be removed and the tails utalised

Possibly.

Or possibly you'll only be able to cook at night.

I will make sure it all works as it should and if the spark doesnt want me involved so be it. How can that possible help me know how much its going to cost have you had a bad day or something?

 

[ericmark]

RF Lighting he said "Induction" these often have a boost when not all rings are in use not sure if you can use diversity in this case?
Also may require semi-conductor fuses as well as MCB as MCB's are too slow to protect electronic equipment so a mini consumer unit may be required?
At 68 amp max I would say even with diversity 45 amp is too low?
Since most consumer units will only take a 50 amp MCB maybe you will need to settle on 50 amp? But it will need 16mm cable at least.
510.2 is main regulation here. You must follow manufactures instructions and I would be giving them a ring to find out what they recommend.
For example semi-conductor fuses may be installed in the range?
For items using commercial current consumption likely it will require commercial switch gear to match?
So to answer question on consumer unit yes you may need a moulded breaker and fuses complete with it's own RCD units of this nature are normally at least commissioned by manufacturer and not to invalidate guarantee it must be right.

 

[roboughton]

RF Lighting he said "Induction" these often have a boost when not all rings are in use not sure if you can use diversity in this case?
Also may require semi-conductor fuses as well as MCB as MCB's are too slow to protect electronic equipment so a mini consumer unit may be required?
At 68 amp max I would say even with diversity 45 amp is too low?
Since most consumer units will only take a 50 amp MCB maybe you will need to settle on 50 amp? But it will need 16mm cable at least.
510.2 is main regulation here. You must follow manufactures instructions and I would be giving them a ring to find out what they recommend.
For example semi-conductor fuses may be installed in the range?
For items using commercial current consumption likely it will require commercial switch gear to match?
So to answer question on consumer unit yes you may need a moulded breaker and fuses complete with it's own RCD units of this nature are normally at least commissioned by manufacturer and not to invalidate guarantee it must be right.

thanks for that I will give them a buzz much appreciated

Rob

 

[maltaron]

Good luck with your cooker. Have you considered running costs? I too have no gas and hate LPG. I have a Stanley oil fired cooker which does hot water and heating and at current oil prices costs about £600 a year for a 3bed bingalow.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

have you had a bad day or something?

No - not had a bad day at all, but you seem to have had a bad reading day.

1) I gave you very good advice about involving the electrician right from the start if you plan to do some of the work as he must be aware of this and happy with it. What was wrong with that?

2)

When they quote me I want to make sure he is doing the right thing and the price wont be higher at the end etc.

I pointed out that you now know how it would be done (courtesy of RF), but questioned how knowing that helped you know what the price should be. What was wrong with that?

How can that possible help me know how much its going to cost

Dunno, but you didn't seem to like it when I asked you that.

3) I pointed out that you might not be able to use an old storage heater supply as you blithely assumed. Maybe I should have let you go ahead with that plan and find out the hard way that you could only cook at night...

 

[RF Lighting]

RF Lighting he said "Induction" these often have a boost when not all rings are in use not sure if you can use diversity in this case?
Also may require semi-conductor fuses as well as MCB as MCB's are too slow to protect electronic equipment so a mini consumer unit may be required?

Did not know that.

I have never fitted one, and did not know that they are any different to standard cookers.

Who said you can't teach an old dog new tricks

 

[roboughton]

Not sure if i should go for the induction version now as it needs so much work to be done. I will just get the ceramic only version. I bdid mention both as i was not 100% now my mind is made up plus i wont have to worry to much about what pots and pans i use.

as for ban-all-sheds thanks for all your help its very helpfull

 

[ban-all-sheds]

How about instead of repeatedly behaving like a pillock you provide a rational and intelligent explanation of what was wrong with my post?