installing cold water feed for washing machine in garage..

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Hi

I'm obviously new to this forum, and having seen the links for this site in most of my Google searches, I'm hoping someone here may be able to help.

We currently have a cold water feed in the garage, originally installed by the previous owners, feeding an outside tap. I'm in the process of moving both the WM and TD into the garage in order to create more space in our kitchen, the machine is cold water fed which means I need to split the feed off to the machine.With all that information considered, could anyone help me with the best and cheapest solution?

All help is greatly appreciated in advance. :)

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Hi

I'm obviously new to this forum, and having seen the links for this site in most of my Google searches, I'm hoping someone here may be able to help.

We currently have a cold water feed in the garage, originally installed by the previous owners, feeding an outside tap. I'm in the process of moving both the WM and TD into the garage in order to create more space in our kitchen, the machine is cold water fed which means I need to split the feed off to the machine. (I've taken a photo of the pipework, which i'll upload when i can) With all that information considered, could anyone help me with the best and cheapest solution?

All help is greatly appreciated in advance. :)

420071-ab0-00co_full.jpg
 
Thanks for that, if you look at my picture, is it a case of a straight swap for the existing isolator? :confused:
 
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Question:

Why are isolator taps for washing machines etc typically of the design shown above; silvered metal, with plastic control tap - when isolators for taps and stop cocks are typically brass construction with brass taps and screw valves?

Both are working under the same pressure, doing the same job......
 
...because if you put the pictured T + isolator in place of your existing, you won't be able to isolate the feed that goes through the wall......
 
Loosen the outside tap, close the existing isolator, remove the curved bit of pipe by detaching from top nut of ex isolator, and cutting pipe on straight section next to soldered 90 degree joint, making sure to leave enough straight section to join on to.

Assuming WM to the left of pipe, add vertical section of pipe from isolator put T joint at same height as soldered joint, add pipe to RHS of this, connecting to stub next to soldered joint. Add pipe to LHS of T, put second isolator here if required, and take pipework to WM.

If WM to right, loosen outside tap, cut pipe next to soldered joint on straight section. Rotate soldered joint 90 degrees anti-clockwise so that pipe points down. Removed curved section. Add pipe with 90 degree bend to right above isolator, put T below solder joint, and add pipework into the gaps....
 
Also while you're at it check behind that wall that feed for the external tap needs to have a double check valve fitted. If not good time to add one in line.
 

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