Installing DG units in wooden windows

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Hi folks,.
As follow-up to my recent 'which way around' question about installing DG units in wooden windows, I have another small question.

There are a total of about 4 wooden windows in which I'll probably eventually be wanting/hoping to change to DG units, and I'm wondering about the best way of installing the units. My first thought was to simply put appropriate beads on both sides of the unit (or where appropriate,a rebate on one side, bead on the other), with silicone run around both sides. However I read a lot about 'glazing tape' (or 'butyl tape' -is that the same?), and various other things, but without much explanation, so I wonder if I'm missing something about what I actually should do?

As a secondary question, many/most of the suppliers seem to offer spacers in the cavity of either 'metal' (silver colour) or 'plastic' (white) - again without saying much about the difference. Are there pros and cons I should be considering, or is this just a matter of aesthetics?

Thanks fir any insights!
 
The differences in the spacers, between metal and fibreglass is the heat transference from one pane to another.
As goes glazing. It really depends whether you have a warranty on the unit ( a lot of manufacturers won't warranty units in wooden frames). Glazing tape could be the butyl flexistrip ( affectionately called putty on a roll ) or double-sided foam tape. Either way , if the bottom bead doesnt allow for drainage you will need silicone anyway in the gap between tbe unit and frame. I have seen units put in all three ways, and all lasting different amounts of time, even when glazing the same way. It will be personal choice depending on whether you have that warranty, then you have to glaze tbe way the warranty covers you
 
Thanks for your interest, and my apologies for the small delay in my reply - for some reason I did not get a notification of your post, and have only just 'stumbled across it'!
The differences in the spacers, between metal and fibreglass is the heat transference from one pane to another.
That's what I presumed. Most suppliers offer metal/aluminium and 'warm'/plastic and I assume that the 'fibreglass' ones you refer to are the latter? If the only difference were the heat transfer, I can't see why anyone would choose the metal ones - are there perhaps some benefits which partially cancel the increased heat transfer across the edges of the cavity with metal ones?
As goes glazing. It really depends whether you have a warranty on the unit ( a lot of manufacturers won't warranty units in wooden frames).
I've been looking at several potential suppliers of DG units and there doesn't seem much to choose between them in terms of either what they say or what their units cost. However, none of the ones I've looked at say anything about a warranty (for any type of frame).
.... I have seen units put in all three ways, and all lasting different amounts of time, even when glazing the same way. It will be personal choice depending on whether you have that warranty, then you have to glaze tbe way the warranty covers you
If, as above, warranty is not an issue, leaving it to 'personal choice', the simplest from my POV would be what I suggested before - just beading and silicone on both sides of the unit (with no 'tapes')- would that be a reasonable way to go?
 
No real benefits of the ' metal ' bar , other than matching existing or marginally cheaper usually.
Re warranty, you'd need to ask as you have found a lot don't mention it
Glazing- yeah I'd go easiest way for my personal property, just make sure you use a Low Modulus Neutral cure silicone ( LMN ) or it will melt the sealant over time. Contrary to popular belief dont use masses of silicone to bead them in, as if you ever need to change them it will be a nightmare to get out.


Notifications not coming through , glad its not just me!
 

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