installing wiring for duel fuel double oven cooker

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hi i have bought a new duel fuel cooker double electric oven the problem i have is.
i know the wire i need to go from the fuse box to the 45amp socket on the wall what i am wondering is do i need to go from the 45amp socket with 6mm cable to a cooker cable outlet plate then to the cooker with the 6mm cable,
or can i just feed the 6mm cable from the cooker to the 45amp wall socket.
hope there`s someone can help thanks steve.
 
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1. this is notifiable work as it is a new circuit.
2. no you should not go from switch unit to connection box in 6mm
3. no you should not go direct from switch to cooker.
4. dual fuel means you should have a gassafe registered installer with a suitable electric qualification or get both RGI and Electrician to attend same day.
 
2. no you should not go from switch unit to connection box in 6mm
Why not, if 6mm² is what the rest of the circuit is, and the fuse/MCB is ok for 6mm²?


4. dual fuel means you should have a gassafe registered installer
Unless he's already got a bayonet connection?

so how many installs have 45amp fittings and 6mm cable on a cooker circuit? not many I would think.

how many cookers come with the hose fitted to the cooker again next to zero.

so the correct answer is what i said

GET QUALIFIED PERSON/S to fit it
 
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Why not, if 6mm² is what the rest of the circuit is, and the fuse/MCB is ok for 6mm²?

if it is then yes, but it is more likely to be 10mm and most electricians would expect that to continue to the connection unit as there is always a posibility of a all electric unit being fitted.
 
so how many installs have 45amp fittings and 6mm cable on a cooker circuit? not many I would think.
The former - don't know, but any recent replacement will probably be so rated.

The latter - a very large number indeed, since a 30A circuit will traditionally cope with up to a 15kW cooker.


how many cookers come with the hose fitted to the cooker again next to zero.
OK - that I didn't know.

OOI, how difficult is it to screw a flexible hose into the back of a cooker?

That was a question of interest to me, as I'm getting a new dual-fuel cooker, and I've got an existing bayonet connection used by the existing cooker. As it happens I'll need that moved so I will be getting an RGI anyway, but if I hadn't had to move it I was thinking "do I really need to get someone to screw a hose into the back of the cooker if it doesn't come with one?"
 
to paraphrase one of your own responses to a similar situation..

"how will you test to ensure that the connection is gas tight and what test instruments do you own or can get hold of to do said tests?"

;)
 
to paraphrase one of your own responses to a similar situation..

"how will you test to ensure that the connection is gas tight and what test instruments do you own or can get hold of to do said tests?"

;)

Bottle of water with a bit of fairy liquid is all you need ain't it?! :LOL:

Back to the original bit of the question, it is not uncommon to find a 45A DP switch on a 32A cooker circuit. Infact that's all i install as Scolmore don't do a 32A DP switch in the range i use.

Steve, are you installing a new circuit from the consumer unit to your new cooker or is there an existing 32A circuit fed in 6mm to the 45A switch in your kitchen already? I can't quite decide which it is so wanted clarification.
 
that's wha I asked a while back on the plumbing forum..
aparently the washing up liquid ( lets not get brand specific here ) does something nasty to either the brass fittings or the rubber hoses or something..
 
That's an interesting one to know, surprised it would do damage considering it's fairly innocuous stuff but hey what do we know.
 
so is cooking oil but it eats away at rubber hoses just the same... ( have to change the pipe in a bio-diesel run car.. )
 
OOI, how difficult is it to screw a flexible hose into the back of a cooker?

not difficult at all, but how do you verify that the cooker hasn't got a gas leak?
in the last 2 months I have fitted 5 cookers and 2 hobs

faults found
loose test nipple on float rail on one cooker
gas meter letting by, on one cooker install (transco called out)
faulty ignition on one hob ( clicks constantly on one burner if turned down from full)

so it is not a matter of just screwing on the hose (this is exactly the reason why they don't come fitted) and the fact there are 3 types of connector (micro point, standard bayonet and commercial type quick release) the 3rd used in pub kitchens etc
 
to paraphrase one of your own responses to a similar situation..

"how will you test to ensure that the connection is gas tight and what test instruments do you own or can get hold of to do said tests?"

;)
Fair enough.

But why should it not be gas tight?


that's wha I asked a while back on the plumbing forum..
aparently the washing up liquid ( lets not get brand specific here ) does something nasty to either the brass fittings or the rubber hoses or something..
The connection at the cooker end is iron, isn't it?


not difficult at all, but how do you verify that the cooker hasn't got a gas leak?
.
.
so it is not a matter of just screwing on the hose (this is exactly the reason why they don't come fitted)
So if I ask the maker why it doesn't come with a hose they'd say "because we can't guarantee to have made the thing properly, and we rely on the RGI inspecting it at install time to save you from disaster".

Interesting ;)


and the fact there are 3 types of connector (micro point, standard bayonet and commercial type quick release) the 3rd used in pub kitchens etc
That sounds more like it.
 

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