Insulating a shed?

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I know this has been asked many times but i thought id rerun it by you guys who are in the know. I have a 6 x 8 shed at the moment which has a tumble dryer in it and alot of mold and condensation(even without the dryer being on) so my thoughts are to remove the mold and insulate and board the shed out...try and make it warmer and nicer to visit esp in winter!..lol
My thoughts are to use either this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Breathabl...d=100005&prg=1048&rk=3&rkt=5&sd=260705666094&

OR
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/POWERLON-...Ceilings_Walls_Roofing_ET&hash=item3cb344c42e on the inside of the walls and then to fill the shed sections with rock wool or similer and then to board up the inside with some 6-8mm board my work was throwing out. Will this work to stop the mold and make it less damp in the shed.??

thedryer at the moment has a box thing we use but i plan to put the hose through the shed and outside via a vent unit.

any ideas or recommendations ??
 
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Ok, after considering everyones replys..lol i concluded that i will use breathable membrane on the internal walls of the shed and leave about a .5- to 1cm gap for air to circulate. On to this i will put some 25mm rockwool insulation (foil backed) and then i will board it all up to seal it in and hopefully get rid of condensation and mold.

this sounds ok to me and i hope this warms the shed up and stops condensation. I have been told that i will need a vent in the walls to allow some air to move around but as yet im not sure how or where to put this...maybe in the doors?

kev.
 
breathable should be on the outside as in outside wood -air space -breathable -insulation - internal covering
 
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thanks big all...looks like my research payed off.
 
one more question big all...i have 25mm rockwool insulation with a silver side. Does the silver side face outwards or inwards? I was thinking inwards to rebound any heat in the shed but thought id confirm before i board up.
 
well i have not done the insulating yet but after removing the old wooden panels i put in (back in the days before i knew better..lol) i found 3 bad patches of water damage and alot of holes ...so i fixed these up and left to dry out abit. Also fitted the tumble dryer vent to the outside to get rid of the mold issue i was having with the internal box i had with the dryer.
Pics so far....
 
what did you fill the holes with it needs to be flexible or it will suffer when the wood shrinks in the dry summer days

the vent would have been better at low level to help avoid water condensing and collecting in the bottom
 
i used flexible white silicon and we used some spare felt to cover the back wall of the shed (it gets most of the weather so we went abit overkill)

as for the vent..o well live and learn..lol
 
most paints varnishes and finishes wont stick to silicon so your stuck with what is there or cover it over

run the tumble for a week and if you have no condensation collecting in the ridges in the hose you will be fine
if the vent exit is at the top off the machine i wouldn't worry
 
vents down the bottom on the machine but i was originally going to make a shelf unit up and put the dryer up higher. Even without the felt on the back the silicon wasnt very noticable from the outside but was on the inside.
 
well its almost done...most of the insulation and membrane in and about 75% boarded up. Shelving unit built and tumble dryer ready to use. yayyyy lol.


made some mistakes but all in all learnt alot from this one to use on a next one.
 
you dont apear to have left an air gap between wood and membrane ??
 
optical illusion, i put small batons on the main beams of the shed and stapled the membraine to these after pulling it tight from one side to the other . theres a gap between the wood and membrane.
 

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