Insurance company, heating would not turn on. Won't fix it!

[sparkyshark]

mattylad

This was my thinking that is why I was so annoyed. I'm thinking I may not let this drop as they should at least do that bit??

 

[JohnD]

I wouldn't call it a diverter valve, I think it's a 3-port motorised valve

that control unit looks to me to have a relay in it which probably sets the valve position according to the calls of the Cylinder stat and room stat (and programmer) and possibly does something according to the reported state of the valve itself.

I find it difficult to grasp

 

[sparkyshark]

Sunvic stuff is expensive this could cost me a packet...

 

[JohnD]

"List Price" is not always what you have to pay

 

[mickyg]

I'm still intrigued how you check the operation of a motor open/motor close diverter with a light pen

 

[sparkyshark]

I'm still intrigued how you check the operation of a motor open/motor close diverter with a light pen

Just found the real "quote" button.....

Haven't got a clue - But there’s no getting around its old. Maybe did it to screw it up further

I just need it working...

Found it on ebay Item 170238850713 - the Actuator
So need a 3 port motorized valve (sunvic)
And better call Sunvic about this electronics box.

 

[sparkyshark]

"List Price" is not always what you have to pay

PS: Trade prices would be even better

Nodding off now will check in tommorow. thanks to all.

 

[JohnD]

And better call Sunvic about this electronics box.

Very good. they are the people most likely to know what parts to replace/update it with. I bet it's easy when you know how

 

[mickyg]

Personally I think you should call back the insurance company and tell them to explain exactly where in the terms and conditions it says they can't make a repair because "its a bit old".

If not and you intend on doing some DIY your best option is to replace the complete valve with a standard spring return valve, buying a normal wiring centre and rewire it. Its not to bad a job to do.

 

[ollski]

Presuming the fuse on the board has been checked I imagine your guy is saying the relay is shot....perhaps worth a try here:
http://www.mjtcontrols.co.uk/Controls_Type3.aspx?Manufacture_ID=51
They have one listed.

 

[DP]

Some of the posts seem to suggest replacement of components without verification and location of defective item. How does anyone know what is faulty without carrying out checks (not with a light pen).

Buying a Sunvic on the ebay may well be nice and cheap, but does the buyer know if it is the correct type and will fit the control box? Have yet to see a Sunvic with a moulded plug.

This post is putting the cart befor the horse in terms of fixing the fault.

Remove the valve head from the body, run CH and check white plastic bush under the valve head for movement. If it moves, then there is nothing wrong with the controls. If it does not, post back for further help unless a perfectly good setup (not understood by the black knight with light saber) is to be ripped out.

So to be sure:
Honeywell 42005748-001 Wiring Centre
Part Number: 42005748-001
Manufactured by: Honeywell

Price Inc. VAT: £11.70

Fail to see how this unit will get the system working again. Best get your neighbor to check out the wiring if aforementioned check produces no movement.

Known Facts:
Valve not being turned by Actuator. No noise or activity.
Electronics Old.

How do you know actuator is not TRYING to turn the spindle?
As for electronics, relay is almost bombproof what it has to do

 

[giblets]

Suggest you ring your insurance co and ask them to send someone round who knows what they are doing and comes armed with a bit more kit than a non-intrusive voltage detector.

All the parts are still available if you know where to look.

 

[buster52]

A simple honey well 10 way juction box and a honeywell motorized vale (and I say honeywell because you can change the motor seperatley) and is easily bye passed for a temp fix untill you get a new motor the honeywell wiring diagram is easy to follow and very easy to fit.
you could buy just the head but looking at the oicture if the base its been leeking on the stem so you really should change both and if the insurer is domestic and generel they will except what the engineer tells them There was a maximum figure on each claim when I was working but that is a few years ago now even if they only pay for the motorized valve which they sholuld you would then only have to pay someone to rewire the set up and that should not take more than an hour max get on the phone and make a lot of noise they will pay for at least part of this

 

[ChrisR]

To the "insurer", I'd say b0110x. Mend it or be sued.
The parts are available. Send someone competent.

Diret replacements might be a little difficult to get so ok, replace with more standard items. All the wires you need are in the junction box you have. If you remove the relay and snip a few things you can use it as a junction box, or a few pounds on a standard junction box and replace the one you have.
Standard stuff. There isn't any "electronics", it's just a junction box with a relay in it.


If a room stat of an obsolete type failed, would they moan that they couldn't replace it, or would they just use a different type

 

[blondini]

Presuming the fuse on the board has been checked I imagine your guy is saying the relay is shot...

I think that is highly likely and the relay looks like a standard plug in type that should only cost a few pounds.

sparkyshark, are there any markings on the relay, it looks like 240v and the diagram shows three double pole c/o contacts. Could you unplug it and take some more pics.