integrated dishwasher wiring advice

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hi guys

my dishwasher has packed up all the lights on display are continuously on and im sure the pcb has gone,so ive decided im going to buy a new one.

so ive removed the plinth,isolated the water and isolated the electric via a isolating switch on the wall I have pulled the dishwasher out to disconnect water and electrics and its hard wired

http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w499/wolf1579/dishwasher beko/IMG_0073_zps05be5c64.jpg

wtf is this? i was expecting a plug socket!
also this fused spur is located below the sink drainer and water has been leaking maybe explain the black marks or not

1.does the new dishwasher have to hardwired as picture is
2.can the unswithced fuse spur be replaced with a unswicthed socket
 
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Hi, in short

1. no
2. yes.

Remember to switch off the mains when you replace the it !

Regards,

KA
 
Probable the reason a spur was used instead of socket is space at the back dishwasher, ie very little.
Measure existing space of unit from front of carcass to face of spur, measure size of dishwasher from back to inside lip of front. would that space between the two allow for 13a plug?.
 
Rarely is there room for a plug and socket behind an integrated appliance, so easiest option is to connect new machine in same manner, and sort out that leak.

Other options include fitting a socket in a nearby cupboard.
 
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thanks for your replys

they didnt use a plug before as swampy said it would not have fit

so if i manage to find a new dishwasher slightly smaller in depth i simply isolate the breaker or the main ring at the CPU and replace the unswitched fused spur with a 13amp socket or 13amp fused spur unswitched or switcthed or does 20amp fused got to be used.
 
13a socket or 13a fused spur (switched or unswitched doesn't matter for either)

a 20a DP switch is not suitable in this instance
 
13a switch spur above - 20a flex outlet below, if fuse blew/ruptures you dont have to remove dishwasher to replace.
 
so ive removed the plinth,isolated the water and isolated the electric via a isolating switch on the wall

Sounds to me like he already has an FCU above the worktop and probably it will have a 13A fuse in it. It is bad practise to have another 13amp fuse on the appliance lead itself (yes I know there's lots like it) but it goes against best practice, especially when we think about fuse discrimination.

Better to wire in the new D/W just like the old one. With the flex outlet at the back.
 
thanks you all again

i will install new as per existing,just to confirm there is the fused spur behind the dishwasher(picture above) and also a isolation switch on the wall would I still require isolation at the CPU can i isolate via isolation on wall gonna check everything before commencing with voltage pen anyway.
 
Please don't mention voltage pen ! they go nuts !

Switch off the mains ! and replace th dishwasher.

KA
 

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