Internal Glass Wall

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I'm thinking about taking out an internal lathe/plaster stud wall and replacing it with near full height glazing to bring light into a hall. there are already some head-height windows in the wall so its not carrying a load from the floor above I don't think.

Any tips or advice on how to proceed as I plan ahead ? Do I need particular glass and will it require building control?
 
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you will not require building control if its not a load bearing wall.

you could build a glass block wall or a timber frame and glaze it but if you glaze it you will need to use safety glass in the critical areas if you look in my album a guide to critical areas is already uploaded.
 
I'm thinking about taking out an internal lathe/plaster stud wall and replacing it with near full height glazing to bring light into a hall.
Is this a bungalow or a house, if it's a house, is the hall upstairs :?:
 
I'm thinking about taking out an internal lathe/plaster stud wall and replacing it with near full height glazing to bring light into a hall.
Is this a bungalow or a house, if it's a house, is the hall upstairs :?:


Its a victorian house and this is all downstairs, with a hallway to the front door running alongside the room I want to open out.
 
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masona, i was thinking about getting one of these tunnels this year for our upstairs hallway, which is very dark when all doors are shut.

Did you get yours from VELUX directly or are there cheaper routes?

Also, i am not sure if this text relates to my question or not, but what is the equivalent out put compared to a standard 60w lightbulb for example.

here is some text i found - Solar gains
As light is also energy, the solar energy gains through the VELUX Sun tunnel are closely linked to the amount of light passing though the VELUX Sun tunnel. The energy content of natural light is roughly 9W pr 1000 lumen. If for example the light output from the VELUX Sun tunnel is 2000 lumen the solar energy gain will be around 18W.

On a sunny day you can get 6500 Lumens, so this works out from above of just under 60w

Not sure if i read that right though?
 
Did you get yours from VELUX directly or are there cheaper routes?
Ordered it via The Loft Shop which Velux company are working together as a partner, 10" tunnel cost me £258 complete kit
Also, i am not sure if this text relates to my question or not, but what is the equivalent out put compared to a standard 60w lightbulb for example.
I think it's best to go and see one if possible, they do 2 type 1 ridged or flexible, the ridged allows for around 3 times the light to travel as it has a cleaner smoother surface.I didn't bother with the internal light inside the tunnel and the bulb needed for the light kit is a energy saver 23Watt bulb(not
supplied)
 
Thanks for the info! Unfortunately there is no loft shop close to me, living in Wales!

What would be a rough price to get this installed? I could do the internal ceiling fittings etc, i would just need it fitted around the roof tile, which scares the hell out of me evening thinking about it as i live in a town house and it's a long way down LoL
 
What would be a rough price to get this installed?
Velux do a fitting service but I don't think it will be cheap!
I could do the internal ceiling fittings etc
Pretty easy to do, which you're saving money
i would just need it fitted around the roof tile, which scares the hell out of me evening thinking about it as i live in a town house and it's a long way down LoL
Best to get a roofer in ;)
 
Cheers, i assume you did your own? what's involved with the roof part? and is it like half an hours work to sort just the roof bit?

Thanks again for the help!
 
i fitted a pair this year.

the velux fitting instructions are foolproof.

select the right size as you don't want to be trimming rafters and ceiling joists. be aware of purlins, ceiling binders, electrics and pipe runs.

be prepared to strip off a large are of tiles for the install.

there will be a lot of tile cutting to do.
 
Thanks mate, much appreciated. I'll defo get a roofer in, not worth messing with something i am uncomfortable with doing.
 
Bloody Hijackers ;)

I too would consider using glass blocks, but if you wanted plain see through glass then it would have to be toughened if going to the ground, as has been said no need for BC unless it is load bearing.
Might look abit 1970s though.
 
O yeah, sorry about the hijack ;)

Well actually in my last place i put the glass blocks up, and they looked really good, i used just the clear glass, not coloured as the coloured ones can date more i think.
 

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