Is a difference of 13mm a big drop in a 4.1m span?

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Double glazing guy was measuring our opening for a patio door system. He said one side was about 10mm to 13mm higher/lower than the other side which is 4.1m in width. There is a lot of dirt on there so not sure if it impact a straight measurement.

When you builders do your work, I guess its never going to be 100% perfect, so what tolerance level is acceptable over such a span?

Separately, to what extent do builders get involved in the electrics except the connections at the fuse board? Do you at least run the cables to the sockets and lights?
 
Double glazing guy was measuring our opening for a patio door system. He said one side was about 10mm to 13mm higher/lower than the other side which is 4.1m in width. There is a lot of dirt on there so not sure if it impact a straight measurement.

When you builders do your work, I guess its never going to be 100% perfect, so what tolerance level is acceptable over such a span?

We aim to get the lintels and jambs as bobbins as possible. If there are minor discrepancies in the sill masonry then this can be dealt with by packers etc. However, the header and sides of the opening need to be square for obvious reasons. I'm not a fan of using 'tolerances' as an excuse.

Separately, to what extent do builders get involved in the electrics except the connections at the fuse board? Do you at least run the cables to the sockets and lights?
Odd question?
Our electrician runs the new cables from the electrical item back to the board, yes. I personally (as a builder) don't get involved in such scullduggery. I leave all that up to the sparks.
 
Our house was a single rectangle. The previous owner then built two extensions at each end of it, making it into a square U shape. When we infilled the U with a conservatory, we found the floor level was different between the side of 30mm and the two new bits splayed out by 23mm. Did not cause any problems, other the there is the 30mm extra step from the utility room into the conservatory.
Frank
 
It's the easiest thing to put a steel in level. No excuses, no tolerances.
 
It could be that the dpc was marginally out on the flush threshold rather than the steel not being level.
 
So if we're having a flush threshold and the guy measured from the height of the DPC brick to the top lintel and said one side was out by 10-13mm, what's gone wrong?
 
My builder tells me that the floor is not final yet as the inside ground has to be raised (100mm insulation and screed)...
 
They can level up the threshold when the frame goes in, keeping the head level.
 

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