Is separate switch required for a cooker hood?

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I'm installing a cooker hood with a sheet metal chimney to cover the ducting. I don't want another unsightly switched FCU on the wall above the worktop. The hood has its own on/off switch. What are my options. I don't understand rules about having a separate switch and it being accessible (why do I need a separate switch if the fan already has one?).

a) Can I hide it behind the sheet metal chimney? This would be my first choice. (should be safe enough since all the fan wiring is separately enclosed and not accessible when chimney is removed)
b) Can I put it in a surface mount box under the wall cupboards behind the pelmet where you won't see it? If so, are there special rules for the twin and earth that will emerge from the wall and run under the cubpoard?
c) Can I put it under the worktop in the base kitchen units? Or maybe above the wall cupboards where it won't be seen?

Thanks in advance for any advice.
 
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you need a switch to isolate the appliance so you can carry out work on it (repairs, removal etc) without isolating the entire kitchen circuit. Just as sockets can be isolated by tripping the MCB, rather than turning off the entire house electricity.

You can have the FCU under the cupboard. Not behind the chimney. How are you going to isolate it if its behind the chimney? Cable should be buried in a wall. But it is acceptable to run under cupboards, there is no option for pelmet lights etc. Run it in mini trunking. Neat and tidy that way. :idea:
 
Crafty, thanks for that, but your reply highlights exactly why I'm really rather confused! If you want to work on the appliance, you start by removing the sheet metal chimney and right there you'll see the switch. There are no live parts visible, because the motor is further enclosed in a housing so there's absolutely no safety reason I can think of. Furthermore, the appliance actually comes with a standard 13A plug so you I could even skip the switched FCU and just use a socket behind the chimney.

And there's always the option of tripping the MCB as you say (the cooker hood is spurred off a ring mains)

I guess my basic question is: if the appliance has its own on/off switch, must there be an ADDITIONAL accessible switch? If so, how EASILY must that switch be accessible? For example since the plug/socket behind a refrigerator or washing machine seems to be acceptable, why wouldn't a plug or switched FCU behind the cooker hood chimney be acceptable?
 
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As far as i know, and this seems sensible, there must be a switch for isolating an entire appliance within a certain distance which is easily accesible to the person using that appliance.

For example, a cooker switch has to be within 2 metres of said cooker and not hidden in a cupboard. I would expect the same to be applicable to any appliance.

For a cooker hood, there is not one on/off switch, there is usually 2, one for the fan, one for the lights. Really, an appliance should have a single external point of isolation, in case anything goes wrong with it. The switch could be placed just under the nearest wall cupboard, out of sight but within reach. A lot of people put it inside a cupboard, but this defeats the point of it being easily accessible if plates and condiments are piled in front of it.
 
Yup - if you needed it in a hurry, you'd be in a right pickle, wouldn't you? Things could get jammed against it. Isolation switches in cupboards just don't cut the mustard. Trust me - I know my onions.
 
All the comments make sense, but I was hoping to find out the minimum required by the regulations. My book seems to suggest that if the fan has a switch of its own, another one is not required - but the wording is slightly ambiguous. I really don't want another switch on my kitchen wall just to protect the switch the applicnce manufacturer has already provided.

And by the way, I just checked a drinks machine in my office (two year old building). The plug is behind it and there is no accessible switch. You'd have to roll it out of a tight space to access the switch/socket!
 
A switch like this has to be accessible.

Further, most hood mfrs insist on a DP switch with at least 3mm seperation.

Just because you have seen appalling examples of electrical installation practice, does not mean you should follow suit.

Pride in the job, and all that?
 
OK, thanks to all. You've convinced me! I'll re-chase for accessible switch.
 
crafty1289 said:
For example, a cooker switch has to be within 2 metres of said cooker and not hidden in a cupboard. I would expect the same to be applicable to any appliance.

B&Q (Yes I know...) have just done some of my kitchen work, and the cooker switch they installed is hidden in a cupboard. Is this in violation of the wiring regs then?

If I decide to complain - would anyone happen to know the section/article number of the regs I could quote at them ?

This is my first post - hope I'm within the forum regs :)

cheers
John
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moderator

edited to correct quote
 
I doubt that the b and q fitters would even get prosecuted. The policing in this country is non-existant and the authorities aren't going to come out because someone put a switch in a cupboard as opposed to above the work surface. Although you have good grounds to negotiate a discount.

Half the wiring done in this country by registered competent "electrical engineers" is substandard in my opinion. And in all honesty you don't have to be that clever to do wiring.

A basic knowledge of how to read, use a screwdriver and a calculator will be sufficient.

The whole concept of Part P is a money making scheme. It means that people have to get someone who can read use a screwdriver and a calculator (yes I know a bit of an exaggeration) to do the most basic of electrical work. If a competent DIYer does the installation himself then I don't blame them.

a bit of a rant but now i feel better
 

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