Is this a load bearing wall?

[Last Triumph]

Sketchup? I've absolutely no idea what you're talking about...

So, just to confirm, engineering bricks up tight and dry against the bottom of the beam without mortar, but with no more than a 10mm mortar bed underneath them?

Also, when boxing in, do I need to fill the voids in the beam with mortar against the breeze block either side?

 

[Shytalkz]

Haha, well you're doing pretty good with it, I have to say...! Swop it to one of the sketchy styles, looks less exact, more "edgy" as it were.

Re padstones, correct.

No need to mortar up, as your cladding will be in front of the beam edges to give the requisite 1/2 hour fire protection.

 

[Last Triumph]

Thanks. I was thinking more along the lines of torsional rigidity, but I guess it isn't going to 'fall over'

Waht is the accepted method / tools used to create the slot in the bearing walls to support the beam? Surely it isn't chain drilled holes and a chisel?

As far as Sketch up goes, I made a perfect model of my house accurate to within 1/4" so I could plan and visualise a proposed extension.

I found it really difficult to explain what I wanted to builders when I was getting quotes, so rather than paying an architect a small fortune, I gave them a full sketch up model of before and after so there was no chance to get it wrong! The builders I gave it to seemed pretty impressed. It is also fully complete on the inside too - I can go for a walk about in my virtual house!

Current...

Proposed extension....

I was quoted £29.5k for the building 2 years ago (not including the block paving fence etc.... but I guess I might be able to do a bit better at the moment....?

 

[Shytalkz]

Cool, how long did that take you to do all of that? I'm redoing my barn project on SU at the moment. It's helping the missus no end, as she never can understand 2D stuff; only downside is that she wants loads of changes now. Heyho.

No, it won't buckle at the ends! When you see it on site, you'll know that for sure As for the cutting-out, that's how I would do think to do it, but someone like Noseall will probably give you a far better solution, tbh.

 

[Last Triumph]

I started with all the elevations and plans at first ( I used to be a draughtsman) but it then turned into a hobby / challenge and I sat with the lap top on my knee for a few hours each evening for a good couple of weeks.

I went OTT a bit - I had the basic structure done in a couple of hours - what took ages was getting all the window frame recesses, doors, fence posts and panels etc, plus measuring it all took ages too. Like I say - it's accurate to 1/4" EVERYWHERE!

Sorry - I didn't mean 'buckling', I meant that because the beam sits in it's 'vertical and tall' position with the 178 in the vertical axis, does the flat 102 flanges have to be tight against the edges of the slot in the bearing walls and filled with mortar?

Also, at what point to I call the inspector - when it is in and dry with acros, or after I've mortared it all in and removed the acros as this might prevent him seeing the depth of bearing etc?

 

[Shytalkz]

You should have used components function, much easier then! .

Got you. Easiest way is just to brick in between the flanges, or cut a replacement block in. Compo will just fall out.

When you've got it all in and before you cover up will be fine for the inspection.

 

[Last Triumph]

Right then, just gearing up for the job on Wednesday and wanted to check a few points.

Firstly, as I'll only need a little bit, I trust a tub of ready mix mortar (just add water) from Wickes will be sufficient?

What order do I mortar the engineering brick in?

I'm picturing having the beam in place and acro'd firmly against the joists, then mortaring in the engineering brick underneath it leaving a small gap to fill with mortar?

Or does the eng brick and beam sit together dry?

I know that I'll need some king of wedge to keep things tight, but it's the order of things I need clarification on between mounting the beam and mortaring the eng brick in, leting it dry before or after, and when the wedge gets invloved in the mortar drying process?

A quick run through of best practice in terms of job order would be helpful?

Thanks

 

[Last Triumph]

What a day.... didn't have any help, so some tasks like getting the plank and acro props up by myself was exercise in inginuity and patience!

The pics will speak for themselves, needless to say, it was hard work, especially carrying the 'wall' outside. But as I type, everything is back together again and functioning as a kitchen / dining room, clean, tidy and dust free!

At the weekend, I'll install the beam....

Don't worry, I cut holes in the carpet, the acros are against the solid floor!

The wall was embeded.... I'll need to block this one up again.

The desk of Last Triumph...

Yes, definately a load bearing wall!

And yes, it'll be getting a new floor and kitchen very soon.....

 

[Shytalkz]

All coming along nicely

 

[Last Triumph]

Got the beam in today....

....through a hole cut in the louge wall!

Tha pad stones are sitting nicely on a bed of mortar with a 1-2mm gap that I'll shim with a couple of bits volkswagen rear quarter panel

The mortar isn't as deep as it looks, I just couldn't help but smooth it out. It's actually only about 10-12mm thick.

The building inspector comes on Monday afternoon and will hopefull sign it off okay.

Just noticed this morning that one of the pad stones is still 'loose' - i.e it isn't stuck firm to the mortar. This mix was just slightly wetter than the other one. Other than it taking a bit longer to set and harden fully, is there any issue that it hasn't fully 'grabbed' the block?

The reason I know this is that I grabbed the block and gave it a bit of a tug to check (don't know why), and it lifted a touch - it didn't rock or anything, but you know when you just know it isn't fixed firmly and if you wanted to pulll it out, you could.

It's in compression so I know it isn't going anywhere, but just thought I'd check that this isn't an issue?

 

[Last Triumph]

Council inspector passed it off, despite making a comment that the pad stones are usually bigger...

Hooray!

Can I used mild steel for my 2mm thick shims? Slate is too thick and I haven't got any stainles lying around.

Any shim advice?

 

[Shytalkz]

Which just goes to show he hasn't got a kin clue about what he's inspecting...

MS is fine for shims.

You done good with all of that btw .

 

[noseall]

Effin ell!

I wish i could get away with padstones like that.

 

[Shytalkz]

You can, there's not a lot of load on there.

Rule of thumb for length of a padstone on 3.5MN block and 100 bearing is 12 x reaction in kN = length in mm ie for every tonne (10kN), you need 120mm, so an eng brick will take about 1.79 tonnes.

 

[Last Triumph]

Which just goes to show he hasn't got a kin clue about what he's inspecting...

MS is fine for shims.

You done good with all of that btw .

Thanks, your input was most helpful.

Sadly, he didn't even look at the calcs - just put them in a file, checked the size of bearing, went upstairs to make sure the offset wall was stud and not made from lead and tied into all my neighbours roofs and said it was fine.

I trust then that there isn't anything like 1.79 tonnes each end of the beam then?

As most of the joists span the full width of the room, I guess the beam is only really preventing their deflection and not supporting the full weight of the floor and what's above it?

What I'm most pleased with is that I've not cracked any of my travertine floor tiles in the bathroom above it!