Planning to run my 6mm squared T+E oven cable in this zone. Does this qualify as a safe zone? Or do I have to drill through the wall above the RSJ and pass the cable through? Thanks in advance. Steve.
Is this a safe zone?
- Thread starter steve1811uk
- Start date
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Surely it would be easier to drill through the wall than chase around the RSJ? In which case I would do that.
But to be on the safe size ask your BCO inspector because he has the final say and it will come down to what he considers acceptable because the regs are not clear on what to do in this scenario.
But to be on the safe size ask your BCO inspector because he has the final say and it will come down to what he considers acceptable because the regs are not clear on what to do in this scenario.
Actually it's easier to chase round as the plaster is like dust. I don't have to chase into the brick as I will be plasterboarding over the lot using dot and dab. Will try and get the BCO's opinion on this. Steve.
Will drill through the wall above the joist. You wouldn't believe the amount of dust! My wife is very understanding though, even helped me clear up afterwards.
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how did you manage to get the paper off without taking down the picture and calender? 
you might be better off taking the units down as well as you are going to be bringing that wall out 20-30 mm...
you might be better off taking the units down as well as you are going to be bringing that wall out 20-30 mm...
steve1811uk said:
Bet we would!
The rabbit and the hedgehog did the wallpaper removal. Just need to get the cables in now for 1st fix inspection on Friday 30th. Then it will be all systems go, wall and base units will be coming out. I'll be dotting and dabbing onto the brick so the back wall should only come out by about 10mm. Couldn't imagine making this much mess in somebody elses house!
steve1811uk said:
It'll be closer to an inch.
so you're taking it back to the brick then?
yeah then it'll only be 10 mm or so proud of where it is now..
if you're going over the ecisting plaster then expect it to be 20-30 mm..
9 or 12mm for the board , few mill for the skim and the rest for adhesive..
might want to think about sinking those pipes.. bring it out 50mm..
saves a lot of sinking of back boxes.. and if you make it a bit more than 50mm then you can ignore safe zones.. ( relatively speaking of course.. )
edit.. ahh didn't notice the door on the first picture.. that'll cause problems...
yeah then it'll only be 10 mm or so proud of where it is now..
if you're going over the ecisting plaster then expect it to be 20-30 mm..
9 or 12mm for the board , few mill for the skim and the rest for adhesive..
might want to think about sinking those pipes.. bring it out 50mm..
saves a lot of sinking of back boxes.. and if you make it a bit more than 50mm then you can ignore safe zones.. ( relatively speaking of course.. )
edit.. ahh didn't notice the door on the first picture.. that'll cause problems...
You're right about the door. Should just be able to clear the hinges by about eighth of an inch if I use 9.5mm board bonded to the brick. Will box round the pipes and tile/wallpaper over. Not had to do much backbox sinking as the tile/plasterboard/orignal plaster combo gives me over 25mm to play with.
er, no..
can't do that..
no turning right angles in the middle of a wall..
any reason that bottom socket can't be in line with the other one?
might wana extend the worktop and move the top socket over..
can't do that..
no turning right angles in the middle of a wall..
any reason that bottom socket can't be in line with the other one?
might wana extend the worktop and move the top socket over..
Yes you can.
All the wiring is in safe zones even though it goes round a corner.
This is standard practice with CCU to outlet wiring.
Green is ok. Red is not.
All the wiring is in safe zones even though it goes round a corner.
This is standard practice with CCU to outlet wiring.
Green is ok. Red is not.
it was my understanding that it could be either horizontaly OR verticaly from the accessory to the ceiling or floor or to another accessory ( like multiple plugs in a kitchen ) , NOT horizontaly AND vertically...
unless it is in, or covered by something that prevents the penetration of screws or nails... which plastic capping is not..
if the general concensus is that it is fine like that then I'll bow down to the masses and say no more..
I'll still stick to my way of doing it though..
unless it is in, or covered by something that prevents the penetration of screws or nails... which plastic capping is not..
if the general concensus is that it is fine like that then I'll bow down to the masses and say no more..
I'll still stick to my way of doing it though..
It would be better if there were no changes of direction, but when you see a socket you take the safe zone as horizontally and vertically because you don't know which was used. This is the reason why changes of direction are ok so long as they occur at the intersection of 2 safe zones.
I agree Davy
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